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Bertoknee Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2018
Location: Philippines
TOTAL POSTS: 80
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T31 front RH inner CV boot change


.. my 2010 T31 arrived with me with a front RH inner CV boot spraying grease everywhere ...I didnt realise it until I got it home and a couple of days later was changing the engine oil. Anyway split CV boots seem to be a thing on X Trails ...but this boot didnt seem to be split anywhere .. I was a little puzzled ....
Image
this is after I cleaned it up a bit ... damn grease had covered a full 360deg around the large part of the boot..

Anyway ..straight onto Amayana for a genuine cv boot kit .... think it was about US$45 .. cant remember now .. way more expensive than a universal type boot but I had a hunch that was why the old one was not sealing properly...
Image
pretty nice cv boot kit arrived containing everything needed to replace the boot ..impressive. I've had the kit for a couple of months now ... just got around to changing it today as weather was on my side ..not full sun..and not wet..perfect..
the usual things first ... wheel nut loosen..jack up..then wheel off to remove split pin from outer end of driveshaft. wheel back on and lower onto ground again..just enough to stop wheel from turning when you undo the driveshaft nut ... deep 32mm socket needed & preferably 6 sided for strength too ..plus breaker bar probably..or a length of steel tube at least. Mine was on mentally tight ..way over torque but I got it off eventually. When happy the driveshaft nut is loose enough ... jack up again..with an axle stand to keep car stable & secure...then wheel off again. I then gave the end of the driveshaft a few good whacks with a good mallet ..to break it free from the hub/bearing splines..obviously take care not to damage the threads..use a hardwood packing piece and whack that. After that its simple enough to get access ... I only removed the 2 x 21mm strut bolts...and the 17mm steering link ... I left the bottom arm 18mm pinch bolt connected so the hub assy could sit there while I sorted the boot. Some people remove all 3 ..I think you really need to remove 2 of the 3 ..strut/ bottom arm/steering to get enough movement on the hub. I also didnt remove any of the brake system ..again...most folk do, just to improve access a little.. I was keen to disturb as little as possible. In the end it worked out ok.
Image

With this arrangement there is enough outward movement of the hub to allow the driveshaft to come free of the bearing...its a straightforward procedure to pull the hub out & away from the splined end of the driveshaft ..mine had certainly been off before..if you have a factory fit then..it may not be so easy. With the outer end seperated from the hub I then went to the dodgy inner end. Prise off the large stainless boot clip ..and then prise/slide the large end if the old boot off the tulip. You then have to feel with a small flat screwdriver for the retaining clip that is just inside the end of the tulip ..clipped into small grooves. The pic shows the empty tulip with this retaining clip ... cant see the grooves it sits in because of grease ..but you get the idea ..this is the clip that prevents the tri-bearing from coming out of the tulip.
Image

Once the clip is out ... the tri-bearing will then slide out of the tulip..and the whole driveshaft will come away from the car. A simple small circlip comes off the end ..and the tri-bearing can then slide off the splined shaft end. After that the boot can be changed easily. Pic shows the new boot fitted in place ..with old boot sat there. Just about to slide the tri-bearing back on the shaft and fit new circlip.
Image
Important to note here that the scalloped parts of the boot ..ie the 3 sort of half round bits of rubber on the inner face ... (see pic of old boot) need to be aligned exactly BETWEEN the 3 bearings. In short..the boot and the tri-bearing need to be in the correct position relative to each other..otherwise the boot will not fit over the tulip. Check the pic of the open tulip .. you will see what I mean. With the benefit of hindsight I should not have clamped the small end of the boot until later ... that way you can rotate the boot a little to line it up properly. Good time to put the new large boot clip over the tulip now ..so its ready for the new boot.
Once the shaft was reassembled ..I filled the boot with new grease and went to refit the driveshaft to the car. Only way I found to do this was to fit the inner end first. This allows the driveshaft to be horizontal which makes sliding the boot over the tulip much easier. If you fit the outer end of the driveshaft first..then the shaft is sloping downwards too much ..and it will be a pig to get the boot on! .. I know this now ...lol. Pic shows what I mean..
Image
this pic was taken with outer end of shaft fitted first ..you can see..the boot will be a swine to get over the tulip like this... so..inner end first and keep the driveshaft horizontal. You could of course do the outer first..and then jack up the bottom arm to compress the strut and get it horizontal ... whichever is preferable to you..
The last awkward part of the job is to fit the new retaining clip & capture the tri-bearing inside the tulip. You can see from the pic..there is very little room to do this ..just need to compress the boot a bit ...and do it by feel. It sounds a pig...but the clip slots into place ok .... i suggest practising it when the tulip is empty ..before the driveshaft is refitted....
after that ..fill the boot & tulip with grease ...and slide the boot on ..ensuring that the half- round extra rubber bits..fit nicely into the 3 scalloped parts of the tulip ... If they dont ..then you didnt get the boot and tri-bearing aligned exactly ...remember.. extra rubber bits go BETWEEN the bearings...spaced equally. Once the boot is snug ...squeeze the air out of it to move the grease along and fit the 2 new stainless boot clips....

once the inner end is sorted you can manouvre the outer end into the hub bearing ... I put a little copper grease on the splines .. just enough to keep it from sticking and corroding in there. After that..just reassemble whatever bolts were taken off previously..strut/bottom arm/steering..& torque them up to spec. Wheel back on ..lower car to ground and torque up the driveshaft nut. I've seen a lot of info on various forums suggesting this nut should be torqued up to an insane value ..I'm sure I read 250Nm in some places ..I'm confused by this as my service manual clearly says 125Nm which is a much more sensible value. Perhaps the suggested torque has been updated by Nissan at some point? ... maybe because of the 'clicking' issue that I read somewhere?? Anyone know for sure?
Anyway..after that.. jack up again..wheel off..and fit new split pin on the end of the driveshaft. ..wheel back on ...lower to ground..and its done.

The whole job took me perhaps 3hrs ..but I was alone..and going slowly & steadily ..making sure as I went along. If I have to do it again....its a 1.5-2hr job really. One last thing tho ..i used half a roll of kitchen tissue during the job. As soon as that inner joint is exposed..it obviously gets messy & everything gets greasy ..so I was wiping my hands regularly to keep it all as clean as poss. Additionally ..because I didnt remove any brake components ..the brake disc got a bit greasy too when I was manouvering the hub ... I had to clean mine up with brake cleaner... both faces when I was done. Because of this I might remove the caliper & disc if I had to do it again .. just to avoid getting grease on brake bits...


Last edited by Bertoknee, 25/Jan/2019, 7:07 pm


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Graeme, Cagayan Valley, PH
T31 Series 2 2011 2.5 CVT 4WD
X-5534
24/Jan/2019, 11:32 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
dlpeek Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2010
Location: Macquarie Fields SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 1003
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Re: T31 front RH inner CV boot change


Well done Graeme.
You and other forum members have successfully replaced CV boots (and complete shafts). Last year I ordered a RHS inner CV boot because mine was also split and grease was splattered everywhere. I was kindly offered assistance to replace the boot myself by another forum member but because an unexpected family issue arose which required me to travel some kilometres at short notice I had a local mechanic (not my usual mechanic) replace the CV boot for $90.00.
 
My ordered CV boot arrived later so I now have a spare. After travelling some 7864 kms to Uluru and surrounds I now have a very slight shudder on take off but not noticeable at any speed. My usual mechanic has since stated that the slight shudder is due to a slightly worn RHS drive shaft which is quite plausible due to the previous leakage of grease and thus possible wear of the shaft prior to the replacement of the boot. It is currently not a concern for me but your post, and the previous offer of assistance from a local forum member will give me the confidence to tackle a complete CV shaft replacement myself when the time comes. I would really like to give it a go when it becomes really necessary to replace the shaft.
Ain't this forum great???
Have a great Australia Day,

---
Dave Peek
X-1756 (c)
2010 T31 ST-L (S2) CVT Precision Grey.
Tow Bar, bash plates, PEDDERS lift, YOKO GEO AT/S tyres.


25/Jan/2019, 2:54 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Bertoknee Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2018
Location: Philippines
TOTAL POSTS: 80
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Re:


hello Dave ... I dunno what the deal is with these inner CV boots on T31's especially ..but I have read too many stories about split boots! ... is the OEM boot getting over-extended? .... is the rubber/plastic prone to cracking prematurely? ... its bizarre.

Mine actually wasnt split ..it was the incorrect boot that had been fitted previously ...it had the 3 scalloped sections but just wasnt anywhere near deep enough and was barely hanging on to the tulip. The grease was just escaping out under the ill-fitting clamp. However, that boot must have been fitted, presumably because the original factory boot was split/damaged!? ..

I did note that when the suspension is at full extension that inner boot is pretty tight on the top edge ..with the corrugations very extended...

Makes me a little concerned about what a suspension lift will do to it!

Last edited by Bertoknee, 25/Jan/2019, 7:08 pm


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Graeme, Cagayan Valley, PH
T31 Series 2 2011 2.5 CVT 4WD
X-5534
25/Jan/2019, 7:06 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
dlpeek Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2010
Location: Macquarie Fields SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 1003
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Re: T31 front RH inner CV boot change


Hi again Graeme. I have had a spring lift as have others. This may be why the increased difference in shaft angle has an effect on the OEM CV boots. It would be interesting to know if this problem is just as prevalent for non lifted exys. Perhaps other members who have the problem could comment.
As for non OEM/Universal boots, it has been written before in this forum that some are larger in diameter and thus more prone to rubbing on body parts that cause wear and eventually failure. More prevalent perhaps if those vehicles have also had body lifts.
Others may like to comment.

Last edited by dlpeek, 26/Jan/2019, 7:06 am


---
Dave Peek
X-1756 (c)
2010 T31 ST-L (S2) CVT Precision Grey.
Tow Bar, bash plates, PEDDERS lift, YOKO GEO AT/S tyres.


26/Jan/2019, 7:05 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Bertoknee Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2018
Location: Philippines
TOTAL POSTS: 80
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Re:


I understand that a lifted X Trail is going to place more demand on a CV boot ... but many, I would say the majority of the stories I read of boot failures . .... are on standard vehicles .... with factory boots. That just isnt right .. I have had dozens of cars of varying ages ... and looking carefully, most have still had original boots.

One important thing I did notice while changing that boot ..is that the driveshaft NEVER seems to go above the horizontal. ALL the movement is from about 5° down with the suspension fully compressed ... to perhaps 25° down with the suspension at full sag. That is such a waste of potential CV movement. In addition, lifting the car will exacerbate this ... such that all the movement would then occur between say 10° down & 30° down with the inevitable extra stress on the boots.

Its unusual that the car wasnt designed with the driveshaft at horizontal when sat at normal height ... ie. suspension perhaps half compressed. .. that would at least allow the boot to move over +10° to -10° ... which of course it can do comfortably.

Anyway ... just my observations and thoughts .... I dont profess to know the geometry details .. so maybe Im talking nonsense.
I am more concerned about lifting my X Trail now tho ... I have a Tema 25mm body lift kit sat waiting to get fitted here ... not sure about it now ...

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Graeme, Cagayan Valley, PH
T31 Series 2 2011 2.5 CVT 4WD
X-5534
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Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 6117
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Re: T31 front RH inner CV boot change


Our Xtrails are an off-road vehicle and having the transmission positioned low enough to have the driveshafts horizontal when at normal ride height would lower the clearance to a detriment to this ground clearance. It would be back to a standard vehicle.
The only other way to gain ground clearance is to fit larger tyres or have the transmission/differential mounting as in standard 4WD vehicles. The problem with this is that their ground clearance is set by the differential housing height from the ground, which is only alterable by tyre size.

The problem with non-OEM "universal" boots are that they are too large and the corregations rub excessively on each other causing the rubber to wear thin. This can be limited somewhat by the periodical application of a silicone lubricant if you remember to do it.

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Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
03 Titanium Ti T30 Series 1 **MODIFIED**
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27/Jan/2019, 12:22 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Bertoknee Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2018
Location: Philippines
TOTAL POSTS: 80
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Re:


oh heck..of course ... sorry Kev, I was being thick.

designers of an off road vehicle will always wanna keep the final drive/ transmission etc as high as poss .. so the drvieshafts are always gonna be sloping downwards to the hub ... Duh.

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Graeme, Cagayan Valley, PH
T31 Series 2 2011 2.5 CVT 4WD
X-5534
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marcelocwb Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2018
Location: Curitiba
TOTAL POSTS: 27
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Re:


Very nice post. THanks
Bertoknee for your detailed instructions and comments and also photos of the process.

I intend to lift my 2009 t31 also with Tema 4x4 lift kit that is sold in ebay.

This topic of cv boots is very important for me.

I saw here in some other post a recommendation to use Febest brand boots. They appear to be a "bit longer" than original?

When possible I will take photos of my actual setup. I suspect the boot are original.



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Marcelo
T31 LE Petrol MR20DE 2.0 4FWD 2009 Black
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Paul G Xtrail Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2018
TOTAL POSTS: 2
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Re:


Hi all, I recently had to change the front RH inner CV boot on my 2012 2.5L CVT model. I didn't realize it had split until I got new tyres the other day and the tyre guys noticed it. Thanks Bertoknee your info was very helpful in getting this job done. I am wondering if anyone can tell my how much clearance there should be with the 3 bearings and the shafts they go on with the tri-bearing? Mine have a fair bit of clearance so they are quite loose on the shafts, am hoping this is how they are meant to be. Thanks Paul G
16/Feb/2020, 3:45 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
roid Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2017
TOTAL POSTS: 91
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Re: T31 front RH inner CV boot change


I recently got a pair of fronts CVs and shafts replaced in Campsie at A&L Driveshafts, they did it promptly at the time I booked in, and showed me the ABS rings were physically the same (very close). No complaints in 2 and 4WD so far, and the boots look and feel good (so far).

At under $400 for both fitted, I wasn't going to install them. If there are any problems I can go back, and given the stories above that could well be less trouble.

Got to keep the old ones so will replace the boots and keep them as spares anyhow.

http://www.sydneycvjoints.com.au

Last edited by roid, 27/Dec/2020, 9:23 am


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05 T30 ST-X Auto
205/75x16 A/Ts on 6.5" ET40
200k: Refreshed suspension,fuel, ignition & cooling systems
Often good & dirty as is lifted 35mm on Sachs Automatics & poly bushings
Northern Sydney, NSW
26/Dec/2020, 1:25 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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