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Date Registered: 12-2014
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 7
Reply | QUOTE
T31 Front Wheel Bearing Change, without need of re-alignment, yay


Hi Guys,
How-to on the wheel bearing change on the fronts, on my car without the definite/immediate requirement to go get the front wheels all re-aligned, this is because none of these major items are touched, as shown here:-
however, it does not mean 100% that you wont, as if there has been any alignment done with knackered wheel bearings, then you're stuffed also!!!, just a note...
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Approx time to perform, front left approx 1.2hrs front right 30 mins (much quicker after taking care on the first.... emoticon )
Car:- 2011 T31 TL diesel Manual 100k Kms,
(bearing # the same listings for the petrol model too!, so same job)
Problem:- Car had a light whirring noise in the front left, got progressively worse.
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any who, please refer to below, running image gallery of how I progressed.
Please note, yes I do have a hoist and workshop, of which is somewhat equipped to tinker with cars,
ill elaborate a little more as You all get to know me emoticon

before starting anything, measure, check and measure some more....(Ive been taking HEAPS of measurements of anything/everything during this work and documenting as such.)
new pair of front hub & wheel bearing assy's for my model, off ebay, reputable seller from eastern states (wont plug as im not sure im allowed to emoticon )
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a step by step
-crack wheel nuts
-lift car (Safely, not going to recommend any certain way hence why i use a hoist)
-remove wheel (not the steering wheel!!!!! if you thought this then stop reading here, please!)
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-remove 12mm bolt securing the wheel sensor, used for ABS and traction/stability esc etc etc.
-remove this sensor, (This Must be removed now or you may forget and break the sensor, like i nearly did, but was lucky i was taking my time!!!!)
ImageImage

-crack the 2x 19mm bolts holding caliper mounting bolts, (not the smaller ones with the rubber squishy bellows)
-remove caliper and hang up out of the way, TAKE CARE!! of the flex lines, inspect before going too much further, also not to hang caliper from the line, I used a cable tie to hook up to one of the lower spring coils. Also make sure you dont burn yourself if the rotor and caliper a steaming hot!!! and one more thing DO NOT PUSH ON THE BRAKE PEDAL whilst removed.
-remove brake rotor, will require soft face mallet to tap whilst working free.
Image

Here is where you will see the bearing/Hub assy, no pics of this step, sorry emoticon

-REMOVE dodgey ass split pins, as mentioned in other posts, these by no way do any favours in stopping the nuts winding off too far, as they will easilly come approx 2-3mm off the hub if loose, like mine were, but only 1-2mm loose, which is what caused the LH side to fail pre-maturely.
-remove 31mm front shaft nut, will require alot of force, i use a hefty electric rattle gun for this, otherwise a breaker bar with an extension is your friend (may need to pop the centre wheel cap and do with wheel on with the handbrake on)
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-Use suitable claw-style puller, to push the end of the driveshaft back through the hub, only enough to gain access to the 4x 17mm bolts behind the steering knuckle assy (you'll see the ends of these 4 bolts facing you on the mounting flange of the bearing/hub assy)
DO NOT over push the shaft back through, check by monitoring the driveshaft axial play (in-out) when you have only a couple 'mm' left STOP pulling/pushing

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-Now this is the toughest part, using suitable sized ring spanners with little offset and a rubber mallet to crack these 4x bolts, you have extremely limited room here, so no ratchet/socket will help much here. I used 2 different types of ring spanners here as they have slightly different angular offset to the hex head on the bolts, like i said 'ITS TIGHT'.
once cracked, use contourted hands, fingers and arms to get these babies out, not easy, but once you know how you, will have it done in no time.
-remove the puller unit, its ok if the shaft wants to slide back out freely as mine were quite stuck.
DO NOT smash the end of the shaft with a hammer, you WILL damage the threads and be in a bit of trouble.
-Wiggle the bearing/hub assy free by pulling while doing small circular loops, this is a machined fit. Watch out for the small dust ring around the back of the bearing/hub assy, these 'can' have sharp edges, (this is where the ring, if stuck on the back where it should be can snap that ABS wheel sensor!!!! you have been warned, its only plastic)
once free you will drop the dust shield/backing plate on the ground, ok note which way it goes back on, dust marks will pre-veil if you cant remember.

-CHECK and check again, the new units are the same, you cant rely on a parts mob telling you its the same as another, or even that they have read the number correctly, picked/packed correct the right item (GOLDEN RULE)

-Clean up shaft splines and generally around the area in question.
-re-assemble new bearing/hub assy with backing/dust plate and dust ring, sneak one of thr 4 17mm bolts in from behind, to grab once all lined up, should only be a light push to get it to bottom out on the knuckle assy.
install other 3 bolts and do up as tight as you can with the mallet and ring spanner, carefull not to slip off and skin any knuckles etc. FSM torque is quite high, but 'FT' (f***ing Tight will suffice).
-check all 4 bolts are tight again, just for safety measures as these are like wheelnuts!!!!
-re-assembly of the rest in rev order as per above, no puller req'd any more.

Things to note when re-installing
-make sure all bolts are tight
-do-not forget to re-install the ABS sensor and firmly do up the retaining bolt.
-use a small drop of thread locking compound on the driveshaft thread, no more. its already tough for anyone to remove, but this is to aid in these nuts un-winding, which they do!!!
-Torque spec on this nut from memory is 150Nm, which is quite alot, again FT with breaker bar whilst car onground will suffice, as long as you are using the locktite
-Always use NEW split pins on drive-shaft nuts (31mm nuts)
-once re-installed double pump the brake pedal before driving. (incase you have knocked back the pistons in the brake calipers.)

Anything else I missed ill try and edit post or add in below posts, maybe some more pics when i find them!

I hope this is at-least a starting point for some, but please execute with care as all item involved are safety items.
Happy to discuss details with and/or do for local Adelaide folk emoticon
cheers Nat0
2/Jan/2015, 1:22 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Translucidus Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
Reply | QUOTE
Re: T31 Front Wheel Bearing Change, without need of re-alignment, yay


Awesome write up - THANKS!!

---
2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .

4/Jan/2015, 10:19 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 6004
Reply | QUOTE
Re: T31 Front Wheel Bearing Change, without need of re-alignment, yay


Not sure what the last pic was supposed to show. Did you mean it to show the 4 bolts to be removed from the rear of the hub/bearing assembly ?

---
Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
03 Titanium Ti T30 Series 1 **MODIFIED**
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8/Jan/2015, 7:49 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
a9entjones Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2015
TOTAL POSTS: 5
Reply | QUOTE
Re: T31 Front Wheel Bearing Change, without need of re-alignment, yay


Reviving an old thread, but just an FYI for the T30 owners.

I just replaced my front bearings today. The T30 does NOT have the four 17mm bolts described in this thread. You must remove the entire knuckle to get to the wheel bearing. Yay!

Last edited by a9entjones, 24/Jul/2016, 4:30 pm


---
Name: Jason
Member number X-4285
Vehicle- 2006 T30 manual Black STS Extreme
24/Jul/2016, 4:29 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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