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Armeya Profile
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X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 04-2013
TOTAL POSTS: 18
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Re: Re:


Mr Mez,

What type of dino oil did you use for the first 1000Ks and which oil filter as well?

Thanks

Aram

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Aram
Melbourne
X-Trail Snow Storm TS Manual - Series V
premium tint, roof racks, cargo barrier, Hi-Tech exhaust system, tow bar, strut bar, bonnet protector
4/Apr/2013, 12:45 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Exywarrior Profile
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X-TRAIL FANATIC
 


Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: Darwin, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 325
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Re: Re:


I wouldn't use any 'dino' oil at all. There are no 'dino' oils that are suitable for diesel particulate filters.

A lot has been learnt about the M9R engine since those earlier posts and the specified grade of oil for the DPF-fitted M9R engine is a fully synthetic oil that is suitable for diesel particulate filters. If you use a non-synthetic oil you risk significantly reducing the life of the DPF.

Just like I said in another thread if you deviate from the Nissan Spec it will be bad for your warranty. Be safe - stick to the specified Nissan oil.

Mark

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Mark T
2011 Series 4 T31 TL Auto - Twilight, factory towbar, factory mats, tinting, Cooper CS5s, cathodic protection, paint protection, yada yada...and no Provent
X-2099
4/Apr/2013, 10:18 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
AugustusXTrail Profile
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X-TRAIL ENTHUSIAST
 


Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Cowes Phillip Island Victoria
TOTAL POSTS: 123
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Re: Breaking in the Diesel


 emoticon Ok, my procedure for running in the new Augustus.

1 Drive it carefully for the first 10 Klicks NOT, have you seen the way they drive these things when they load them on the ships, they drive them like they stole them, and so will I, sort of.

Why? You must get the hone off as quickly as possible and get the pistons consistently to the top of the bores. Now I'm not suggesting holding it flat with no load on it, no way, that leads to disaster, you should never rev an unloaded engine hard, that's when things let go.

1st up I'm brewing some trick run in fuel, I always do this, in the case of the diesel it will start with a base of Caltex Vortex Premium Diesel, from a servo I know I can trust and that goes through a lot of it, so it is fresh. To that I will add the recommended amount of Flash Lube diesel fuel conditioner, and then a big big dose of Cetane, Octane booster for diesel. This will be mixed in jerry cans so it can be properly blended.

Why? OK quality fresh fuel for one thing. Why the additives? Flash Lube goes in the current Augustus every tank full, but in this case its so extra lube will be available. Why the Cetane? The biggest killer in any run in is washing down the cylinder walls with fuel, removing the assembly oil prematurely and stopping the hone bedding in properly, so any boost in fuel power will require less fuel to be put in so less chance of washing down the cylinder walls.

2 He will get a decent run on a pretty much flat road about 200Km's, no major hills, this goes against what most believe. Why? To keep throttle loads pretty light to stop the washing down of the cylinder walls. See a pattern forming here! So in our case we will drive him back to the island, pretty much all down hill, LOL, then back to the dealer in Melbourne, Ferntree Gully Nissan, although he will get some stop starts to vary the load, and engine braking to force out the bad bits. At this point around 400km's all oils will be changed, Engine, gearbox & diff. This is our last X Trail, so we are going to ensure he lasts. Why? All components containing oil will at this point have metal fines in them, better to get rid of them now.

At this point the hone will pretty much be gone so time for the hills and a real variance in loads and revs, after another 1000kms all Oils will be changed again, and at 5000kms total the engine oil will be changed again, to be done again at 10,000kms, until 50,000kms are on the clock all service intervals will be halved, then scheduled servicing after that.

Pretty much except for the first 4-500kms I'll drive him like I usually do.

I don't expect many to follow this but if you do expect way more than the expected 300,000Kms out of this engine that Reanult expect.

Once warranty is out of the way, a re ring will be performed, just to freshen him up, and of course a shaved head and mild but effective porting job.

Just keep in mind, these are not your usual diesel engines, they need to be reved and made hot occasionally, or they will become Glazed "Varnished" and you will be up for a rebuild in no time at all.

Hope this helps and please just don't read, leave some feedback and your thoughts as well.

We intend wherever we can to use Caltex Vortex Premium Diesel, will add Flash lube diesel conditioner to every tankful, and extra cetane in small amounts to each tankful, expensive stuff cetane. I always carry cetane to add to dodgy diesel if we cant get premium then it gets a big dose.

Have a great day, Happy Snappin' Darren J Callesen, AKA Augustus the X Trails Dad emoticon

  
2/Apr/2014, 9:04 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Exywarrior Profile
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X-TRAIL FANATIC
 


Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: Darwin, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 325
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Re:


Totally agree with the benefit of using additives that increase the cetane index and the lubricity of the diesel fuel.
I use Liqui Moly Diesel Clean and Boost at every fill. I not only does it doboth those things but it also reduces smoke output and increase the ignition properties of the fuel (burns hotter) which has to also benefit the DPF. I've actually noticed the car seems to do far fewer DPF regens. These fuel conditioners cost money but I think it's worth it.

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Mark T
2011 Series 4 T31 TL Auto - Twilight, factory towbar, factory mats, tinting, Cooper CS5s, cathodic protection, paint protection, yada yada...and no Provent
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3/Apr/2014, 3:29 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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