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jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29100
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Hi Mawzy,

Just follow the photos posting guide HERE and you can also use the forum test section to practice a bit.

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3/Dec/2010, 4:42 am Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
Mawzy Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2010
TOTAL POSTS: 24
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posticon Re: Brake rotors


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Hi Everyone
Have just replaced my original Brake rotors and pads with DBA rotors and Bendix 4wd pads was pretty easy to do and better brakes is the end result.
I removed the brake caliper in 2 parts undoing the bolts with the rubber boots first before removing the main bolts holding the caliper onto the hub assembly.
The rotor came off with a bit of a knock with a rubber mallet.
I made sure that the 2 surfaces to be married were spotless clean ( that is the area around the hub wheel studs and the inside of the new rotor) to avoid any runout problems,
The installment of the new pads required a clamp that pushed the caliper pistons back into the housing but not too much so that you have to dig out the seal. Beware that your brake resevoir will overflow during this process. I used a syringe to remove fluid during this process.
Once all assembled and torqued up , tyre and rim fitted a small test in the driveway before trying the road and away we go.
Even the wife commented on the pulling up improvement of the new brakes!!

Hope this is helpful.

Mawzy

Last edited by jalalski, 7/Dec/2010, 5:00 am
6/Dec/2010, 8:59 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 6170
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Re: Brake rotors


quote:

Mawzy wrote:
Once all assembled and torqued up , tyre and rim fitted a small test in the driveway before trying the road and away we go.



Yes, ALWAYS after changing pads, apply the brakes a few times before moving the Xtrail and then again after slowly moving it a little way. This helps to reseat the calipers and pistons onto the pads and onto the rotors before sailing off onto the road and wonder why you don't stop first time with the pedal on the floor.

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Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
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6/Dec/2010, 9:25 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Nice job Mawzy, now all you have to do is paint those calipers so they don't look so OEM. emoticon

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

7/Dec/2010, 5:12 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
Mawzy Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2010
TOTAL POSTS: 24
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Re: Brake rotors


Thanks Tony ...baby steps, will get to it . Too many toys and not enough time emoticon
7/Dec/2010, 11:57 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re: Brake rotors


quote:

Mawzy wrote:

Too many toys and not enough time emoticon



I know the feeling.

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

7/Dec/2010, 4:30 pm Link to this post Send Private Message
 
basshead Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: Panania, Sydney
TOTAL POSTS: 2852
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Just a tip: Before jacking up the car and removing the wheel, make sure you've GOT a 22mm socket to remove the two large bolts holding the gront calipers in place. I found out the hard way, and had to re-fit the wheel and drive to the local auto parts places (first one didn't have any left) to get one! emoticon My small socket set only goes to 19mm...


Nice write-up and photos, Mawzy. I might add some of my photos to this thread later today...


Last edited by basshead, 8/Jan/2011, 8:03 am


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Date Registered: 01-2010
Location: Melbourne, VIC
TOTAL POSTS: 20
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Re: Brake rotors


It's also a good idea to have a couple of spare wheel studs and nuts on hand when doing this or indeed any work that involves taking the wheels off.

Apparently the "domed" style of wheel nuts are notorious for damaging the studs over time when used in conjunction with rattle guns.

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Wayne
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27/Apr/2011, 11:07 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29100
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Re: Brake rotors


quote:

bomber7136 wrote:
Apparently the "domed" style of wheel nuts are notorious for damaging the studs over time when used in conjunction with rattle guns.



This is EXACTLY what happened to me yesterday when I was swapping my 18" alloys and putting back the 16". I had a set of locking nuts on the 18" alloys and because every tyre place and dealership use the rattle gun, they damaged the locking nut head which I keep inside the car and the regular wheel spanner started slipping on this nut and I couldn't take off any wheels. Lucky for me, I had a rattle gun in the garage and managed to use the head of it to manually remove these locking nuts, so I chucked that set away in the rubbish due to this damage and not to face this dilemma again.

I hate those rattle guns for sure.

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bomber7136 Profile
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Date Registered: 01-2010
Location: Melbourne, VIC
TOTAL POSTS: 20
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Re: Brake rotors


Yes I broke a couple of studs on the weekend also thanks to the rattle gun use by my mechanic shop / tyre shop etc. I found out that new studs are not readily available - out of around 10 auto parts stores that I rang I found a total of 5 studs (with nuts) in 2 stores. By the way part number is NS453 (non-genuine).

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Wayne
X-1491c

2001 T30 ST 5spd
Tow bar, roof racks, floor mats, cargo blind
Bonnet protector, Ironman springs lift, strut bar, equipe 4x4 nudge bar
27/Apr/2011, 2:36 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 


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