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Date Registered: 02-2011
Location: Caboolture, QLD
TOTAL POSTS: 297
Re: Adding a brake controller
Hi To All,
When I started looking for a brake controller, I thought the Prodigy P3 was the way to go until I found out that people were complaining of their brake lights being on overnight. I settled for a Hayman Reece Guardian which is a Tekonsha Primus IQ re badged. After extending the all the cables to a usable length, I went about looking for somewhere to mount it. Didn't like under the dash, so with a bit of effort, it is mounted in the tray above the Koason. Never used that tray for anything in particular.
I've taped the wires together to form a harness to come down from there to where the 2 for the battery go through the harness grommet into the engine bay. This is done by piercing the rubber with a small Phillips driver and using a pull through to get the cables through. I ran the cable for the trailer plug by lifting the left hand sill panels as there is plenty of room for additional cables. I was able to get it over the left wheel arch and along in between the box which holds the jack and the inside trim. From there across under the rear cover strip to the right side of the Xtrail. Although there is the grommet in the spare tyre area, I have opted to drill an additional hole and add a new grommet as this is directly above the existing harness to the trailer connector.
For the stop light connection, I opened up the harness at the left front door and joined into the Yellow cable there. After soldering and insulating, retaped the harness as though no one was ever there. In the picture you can also see the mods I did for the Steering Wheel controls.
The supplied 20 Amp breaker came with a mounting which when drilled out, went neatly behind the nut which secures the TCM to it's mounting bracket. The trailer connector which Nissan fitted allowed the 20 amp cable to fit with no problems. On that note, the Nissan Harness has a blue wire in it for the brakes. You can obviously join into it in the back left corner if you can get access.
Just need a van to try it with.....
The unit mounted in dash.....
The cables exiting to the engine bay....
The cable exitting the tyre well.....
Stop Light Connection....
Circuit Breaker Mounting on TCM Bracket......
2010 Series 3 CVT Diamond Black. Tow pak, Nissan Nudge Bar, Bonnet and headlight Protectors, Fog Lamps, Radiator Protection, L/H Cargo Drawer,Rear Spoiler, Koason DVD/GPS, Pwr Window Delay.
1/Jul/2012, 1:45 pm
Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
Use a test light Callum to see which switch activates the brake lights.
Never hooked one of these controllers up but surely it came with instructions.
is my D22 Navara
is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1
1/Dec/2013, 6:52 am
Date Registered: 05-2010
TOTAL POSTS: 599
Re: Adding a brake controller
Currently wiring in my brake controller.
To see where and how I boldly mounted my Tekonsha Primus iQ Electric Brake controller see second post HERE:
Connecting the Brake Signal wire:
Some-one here mentioned tapping into a Yellow Wire in the Wiring Loom under the Passenger side door sill.
Looking at the circuit diagram above, I located connector B11 which is higher up on the left of the Glove Box and can only be seen when Glove Box is removed.
Pin 9 has a Yellow wire so lower down in the harness is an easier to get at location rather than under the door sill.
The thick yellow wire is the one I added and goes to the Brake controller.
HOWEVER there are 2 Yellow wires there and also perhaps the same two wires in the loom under the sill!!!
To investigate what each wire was doing, I carefully removed just enough insulation (about 1mm on one side only) to check with a multimeter probe.
I discovered that one indeed has 12v when the brake pedal is depressed BUT the 12v Remains on for 10 seconds!!! Don't use this one!!! I resealed the insulation with some silicon "Magic Tape".
The other Yellow wire seems to go straight to the rear brake lights and it has 12 Volts, on and off with the Brake Pedal, with no Extended On.
This correct one, I confirmed later, would easily light up a 15watt 12v bulb (and the brake lights dimmed just a little as confirmation) so I was glad I tapped into that one.
I used a thicker yellow wire and soldered it carefully to the correct thin yellow wiring loom wire with a temperature controlled Soldering Iron and sealed that connection with some more magic tape.
The message here is be ultra careful selecting the correct yellow wire and then making the connection without damaging the other many thin wires in the loom. If you aren't experienced then you would be wise to just get the "brake on" signal from the trailer plug itself like many have done already.
You can also see a thick red wire (my 50amp cable to Anderson plug at tow-bar) and the Thick Black cable is a pair of 25Amp wires to the 7 pin flat trailer connector (to Earth-pin 3 + Electric Brake wire to pin 5-electric brakes).
Here is my ever growing collection of cables going through the large Grommet in the firewall behind the Glove box.
- Thick red is a 50Amp (via a Battery Isolator) for the caravan Auxiliary Battery and 12Volt Fridge whilst travelling.
- Thin grey wire is a pair to run my Daytime Driving Lights.
- The Black cable is a pair of 25Amp wires for Battery +ve & -ve(earth) supply to Brake Controller.
- The other thinner black cable is the UHF Coax to the UHF Antenna.
Note how my wires pass through on an angle up and to the left so as to not ever scrape and damage the thick wiring loom as some have reported doing elsewhere in this forum (their X-Trail did strange unfortunate things after the damage!!!)
Up and to the left also makes the wire enter the Engine Bay to the left side of the Air Cleaner box and it is easy to retrieve the wires there rather than some other places you could end up poking them. Just shine a bright light down that side of the Air Filter Box and you can actually see the Grommet and wiring loom.
I ran the wiring to the rear of the car by going across the interior firewall just behind the heater unit to the left side as per the above photos and down along the wiring loom under the left side door sills that easily lift up.
I needed to partially remove the rear cargo area lower left side large plastic trim panel (the one with the Auxiliary cigar lighter plug) in the rear cargo.
- pull out the rubber door seal,
- remove the rear door sill (the one with the door catch)
- remove the "tie down" hook bolts/screws etc
- the rest are just clips so using a small pry bar lever out the plastic and pull it out a little to get at the cavity behind - you can't completely remove it without removing the rear seats!
If you have a tow-bar already installed then there will be a grommet passing the wiring out just behind the foam molding that holds the Jack.
There is another grommet plug just below it.
It is very thick, like a plug, so remove it and replace it with a suitable size thin one from somewhere. I used a shock absorber rubber bushing/washer and glued it over the hole with Liquid Nails then sealed the wires with silicone afterwards!
Any wires you want to pass out to the rear just poke them down through the hole and they will appear just behind the left rear bumper at left rear corner.
When finished, cable tie them to existing wiring to trailer plug to keep them away from the heat of the muffler.
Also house them in a cable tidy (a black corrugated plastic split thingy) where they go around the back corner of the metal (First place to get crushed in a rear end crash).
Connecting the wires to the trailer connector and the Battery etc has been covered by others so I have just added my variation on the job.
The only extra connections I made was to have a 30amp fuse as well as a 20amp auto-reset breaker at the battery +ve for the controller supply and I also ran an extra earth wire from the Brake Controller to a point near the controller and the same one I used to earth my UHF CB to help avoid interference between the 2 units (due to earth loops) in addition to the negative battery terminal.
Last edited by Translucidus, 26/Jan/2014, 9:57 pm
2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L
Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .
22/Jan/2014, 3:47 pm
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