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BarryF3 Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2009
TOTAL POSTS: 53
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Adding a brake controller


Recently installed a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. This is how I did it:
1. Positioned the controller by screwing in the U shaped bracket and then screwing the controllers holder to the U shaped bracket.
Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10

2. Soldered 6m of blue 50 Amp wire (6mm) to the blue line on the brake controller harness. . Blue 50 Amp wire is very difficult to find unless you want to buy a 30m roll. I resorted to getting white and coloured it blue with a blue marker pen. Got all the wire from Repco.
3. Soldered 6m of red 15 Amp wire to the red brake indicator on the controller harness.
4. Soldered 2m of 50 Amp black wire to the controller harnesses black line. This was only just long enough so I'd recomend 2.5m
5. Soldered 2m of 50 Amp white wire to the brake controller harnesses white earth line. Did all of the soldering out of the car in my workshop.
6. Used heat shrink to cover the soldered connections. Again from Repco.
7. Taped the end of the blue wire to a medium length phillips head screwdriver and poked it through the grommet that is under the dash on the passengers side. Used a trimming knife to cut away the tape and then used long nosed pliers to reach the wire and pull it through. Would have been easier to use a 50cm long thick piece of wire as this could have been pushed through further and the pliers and trimming knife wouldnt have been needed.
8. Once the blue wire was through, taped the black wire to it and pulled it through. Repeated for the other wires as well as the two spare wires. Used cloth tape as this was strong and easy to remove once finished.
9. Positioned the controllers harness near the place I had screwed the controllers bracket (under the dash near my left leg), Then pulled through the wires.


Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10
This photo shows the cable protected wires passing under the passengers dash. The blue and yellow wires are the extra wires I added.

Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10
This photo shows the cable protected wires near where they pass through the firewall.

10. Fitted a cable protector to the wires inside the car to make them look neat (the cables pass around the back of the airconditioning uinit in the central panel).
11. A 20 Amp breaker was screwed in under the bonnet on the left hand side.
12. The black 50 Amp wire was connected to the 20Amp breaker. Spare 50 Amp black wire connected the other side of the breaker to the positive terminal on the battery.
13. The 15 Amp white wire was connected to the negative terminal on the battery. Cable protectors were fitted to all exposed wires. Got them from Repco.
Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10
14. A cable protector was fitted to the remaining cables and they were directed down and across to the right hand underneath of the car, keeping it away from any moving parts and the muffler pipe components. Left hand side underneath was no good due to the muffler and no attachement points.
15. Crawled underneath and fed the wire towards the back of the car. Used cable ties along the way every 30 cm.
16. Passed ithe wires over the shielding for the fuel tank. Used some hot melt glue to keep it in position. Then passed the wires under the wheel suspension/bracing components.
Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10

17. Passed the wires around the spare wheel section. Nothing here to tie cable ties so used hot melt glue to keep it in position.
Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10
The piece of blue wire sticking out was the end of one of the extra wires I added to the loom.

18. Disconnected and opened the trailer plug. Unscrewed the wires and passed the 50 amp blue wire and 15 Amp red wire through to join the other wires.
19. Re-connected all of the trailer connection wires in their original positions and connected the red 15 Amp wire to the stop lamp indicator position, along the original stop lamp wire. This allows the brake signal to be sent back to the controller.
20. Connected the blue 50 Amp wire to the vacant trailer brake connection. The connection wasnt big enougth for the 50 Amp copper wire so had to remove about 30% of the wires to get it to fit. Used a wiring diagram for a trailer plug to connect to the correct positions. Found the diagram on this forum somewhere.
21. Put the brake socket back together. This was a little difficult due to the extra wires adding to the total diameter of the wiring loom. Persisted and got it to fit in the end. Used black insulation tape to make the two sets of wires entering the socket look neat.
Image
By barryf3 at 2009-12-10
The little bit of yellow wire sticking out is the end of one of the spare wires I added to the loom.

22. Checked that the brake signal worked by using a multimeter in the brake controllers red and white wire positions. With no brakes 0 V, with brakes on 12 V. 12 V between the black and white. All ok.
23. Connected the brake controller up. All seemed fine.

Notes:
1. The under car wires are a little exposed in the cebtral region between the front wheells. They could easily be positioned behind the frame members here, though this would put the wires closer to the exhaust pipe.
2. An alternative route would be to stay internal, passing the wire underneath the carpet untill the rear wheel arch. Then drill a hole and pass it through. Then seal the hole up with silicon. More tricky to do but the wires would be better protected.
3. Was going to connect the red brake signal wire to the brake signal wire coming from the switch on the brake pedal. Unfortunately there are four fires on this switch, making it difficult to figure out which one is the correct one to connect to. Chose the easy and less risky method of connecting it up to the brake plug.
10/Dec/2009, 9:41 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re: Adding a brake controller


quote:

BarryF3 wrote:
2. An alternative route would be to stay internal, passing the wire underneath the carpet untill the rear wheel arch. Then drill a hole and pass it through. Then seal the hole up with silicon. More tricky to do but the wires would be better protected.



There should be at least one grommet on the floor of the boot area where the wires can be passed through. The factory towbar wiring would be passing through there too. No drilling required.

Thanks for the detailed guide.

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10/Dec/2009, 10:07 pm Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re: Adding a brake controller


Good one Barry
Tell me, do the trailer lights now work if the Xy is turned off, say if you lock the Xy and get the indicators to flash.

This still annoys me about the Xy and I want to do a quick fix rather than get an auto electrician to by pass module stopping it from working.

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

11/Dec/2009, 5:17 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
Seawind Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2007
TOTAL POSTS: 7
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Re: Adding a brake controller


I have just completed adding a brake controller and wires for a caravan fridge and thanks Barry for your expose which gave me food for thought. Like Barry, I used the rear brake wire rather than the wire from the footbrake - while the correct wire can be determined from the workshop manual I found it too hard to get at with my crook back.

Unlike Barry I ran the wires thru the grommet in the fire and then under the passenger door sill covers. There is already a wire loom there which runs all the way back behind the back seats. And there is space in the loom retaining clips to hold the new wires. Plus you don't have to take the wires through the wheel well as they can continue to run just inside the foam structure on the passenger side of the wheel well and then follow a loom around to the grommet in the wheel well.

I did look at running the wires under the centre console and under the back carpet but it is very hard to get under the back carpet and up over the lip under the back seat. Plus the carpet would act as an insulator which is not what you need if you are trying to keep cables cool - even though I used 6mm stuff.

I needed a relay for the fridge line so that it would only power the fridge while the ignition was on as otherwise the car battery would be flattened rather quickly as the fridge draws 15 amps. So to power the relay I made up a twin core cable with cigarette lighter plug on the end and just plug it into the power outlet in the boot when needed.

The only problem I found was that the sills take a lot of force to get off and the retainer broke off one - there must be a trick to getting them off!

Charles
24/Apr/2010, 9:08 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re: Adding a brake controller


quote:

Seawind wrote:

The only problem I found was that the sills take a lot of force to get off and the retainer broke off one - there must be a trick to getting them off!

Charles



Charles,
I found that using a flat blade screwdriver (with electrical tape wrapped around it) to get one end up to start, then I'd pull them up from the one end and it will all unclip in one piece.
I do remember though the first time I did it was a little dificult The more you unclip them the easier it is to undo..

Tony

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

25/Apr/2010, 6:39 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
BarryF3 Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2009
TOTAL POSTS: 53
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Re: Adding a brake controller


An update: The hot melt glue didn't last long. Ive got the wires tied up with string at the moment. Will get around to doing a more permanent fix some time. Have sold the caravan now so its not a priority.

Barry
29/Oct/2010, 8:49 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
iaindb Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2009
Location: Palmerston, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 110
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Re: Adding a brake controller


I'm having trouble finding someone to fit mine in the NT. One guy said 3-4 hours @ $100/h, the next guy said at LEAST 3-4 hours, and the next said $360 not including the controller. This seems a tad over priced to me given all the costs I see on the web.

I think I'll have to do it myself - how long did it take you guys to do the job, assuming I can follow the advice you've given here instead of trying to find my own way of doing it (eg cable paths, etc)...

Also - Jalal (or anyone) do you know if the X-trail has a pre-fitted brake controller plug? Many new cars do but I can't find out this one specifically. I can't find my online service manual either...

thanks emoticon

[edit - I found my manual and there's no mention of a brake controller harness plug, so I guess I have to install it manually...]

Last edited by iaindb, 19/Apr/2011, 1:21 pm


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Iain == X-1283 ==
T-30 ST-S, 2007, Twilight, Mags, Sun Roof

19/Apr/2011, 1:10 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re:


Yep mate, no brake controller plug on our xtrails.

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19/Apr/2011, 2:38 pm Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
Odzi Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2011
Location: Melbourne Eastern Suburbs
TOTAL POSTS: 23
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Re:


I have installed a Prodgidy 2 controller on my T31 auto and as I have yet to hook up a van, I am 'practicing' the manual aspect of the controller.
 In order to stop any sway from the van or wanting just to apply a bit more brake to the van, you're supposed to manually slide the lever on the contoller and thus apply some brake power to the van. However, when I slide the lever (at slow speed of say 30km), the throttle cuts out/stops responding and the car seems to slow on engine. The throttle responds again 1 or 2 seconds later. Is this normal and something to get used to or is there a trick or is there something else wrong (ie installation?)
 Thanks for any pointers or suggestions from your experience.
Willem


Last edited by Odzi, 22/Oct/2011, 3:36 pm


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Willem X-2038 (c)
Twilight 2011 STL Petrol Auto
22/Oct/2011, 12:17 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re:


Hi Willem,
I got your email and read this post.
It doesn't matter how old the thread is, a "NEW" sign is displayed beside the thread to alert people that a new reply has been made.

As to the brake controller, sorry, I don't know much about them.

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

23/Oct/2011, 11:37 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 


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