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Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 6170
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Re: Wheel Bearings


Unless you have the extended warranty, then it is normally 3 yrs and since it is 2010 already then it depends on when in 2007 you bought it as to when the warranty runs (or has run) out. If it is still in warranty then the bearing should be replaced under warranty free.
If the bearing has been really bad for a long period of time, then the hub might be wearing also and then a hub replacement will also be needed.

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Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
03 Titanium Ti T30 Series 1 **MODIFIED**
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21/Jun/2010, 5:49 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
iaindb Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2009
Location: Palmerston, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 110
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Re: Wheel Bearings


I bought it in 09, but I've just found the 1000km service date is May 2007, so it's pre May 2007. ie. no warranty emoticon


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Iain == X-1283 ==
T-30 ST-S, 2007, Twilight, Mags, Sun Roof

22/Jun/2010, 9:25 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 06-2009
Location: Palmerston, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 110
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Re: Wheel Bearings


OH. MY. GOODNESS!!!

I picked up the car yesterday arvo from the mechanics (they rang to say that bothbearings needed replacing emoticon ) and it is sooo quiet!

It is unbelievably smooth and quiet! I thought the wa-wa-wa noise would go (and it did), but it now runs so much quieter. I thought the tyres were noisy, but it must have been the bearings. And it's smoooooth! The steering feels much more responsive and no shakes!

It must have had bearing problems ever since we bought it (2008). Unfortunately, had we known (I thought it was just the 4wd noise) we could have had it fixed under warranty.

Well, it's a joy to drive, it's like getting a new car emoticon

I encourage any X-trail owners to get their bearings checked. And remember ours has only done 60,000kms.

Edit: It cost $798 for the two front bearings. There was some extra hassle since something had seized to something, (drive shaft?). Plus they also changed the spark plugs and did some other bits n pieces.

Last edited by iaindb, 24/Jun/2010, 9:46 am


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Iain == X-1283 ==
T-30 ST-S, 2007, Twilight, Mags, Sun Roof

24/Jun/2010, 9:41 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re: Wheel Bearings


Glad to hear that its all sorted out.
quote:

There was some extra hassle since something had seized to something, (drive shaft?).


I'm guessing that one of the bearings had seized to the drive shaft. If so, you were lucky that you had them checked out when you did.
It could have been a lot worse if the bearing had disintergrated.

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

25/Jun/2010, 6:05 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 06-2009
Location: Palmerston, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 110
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Re: Wheel Bearings


yeah, he said the bearing case had started to wear.

I had to take it back in today, since there was a loud scraping/squealing noise coming from the front right (very occasionally, mostly when going slow). It turns out the backing plate got bent in the process and was rubbing against something. Only mild though.

No cost to me of course, and they didn't make me wait to get it in or work on it. And an apology for the nuisance, so I'm still happy with them.

Did I say how quiet it drives now? emoticon

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Iain == X-1283 ==
T-30 ST-S, 2007, Twilight, Mags, Sun Roof

25/Jun/2010, 11:14 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Robbo0001 Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2008
Location: Brisvegas, Australia
TOTAL POSTS: 1063
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Re: Wheel Bearings


Had the "pleasure" of changing out the drivers side front wheel bearing today. The symptons were grinding/whirring noise when turning left. Been present for two weeks, had tried rotating tyres, checked all nuts, bushes etc…so the bearing was the last bit to do. Car has done 170000, I believe these are the original bearings.

A few photos of the process…the original bearings is completely shot to hell.

ImageImage Image


As already stated, a press and a puller are required to remove the hub and the bearing. I wont go into to much detail, but for anyone considering doing this here’s a few tips.


Tip1 The best thing to press in the new bearing, is the old bearing. Obviously a perfect fit, and saves scrounging around for a 53mm socket or whatever. My old bearing is now painted red, and living in my shed as a future tool.

Tip 2 Buy a new hub when you get the new bearing. I did, luckily. I believe the reason so many bearing changes require new hubs, is solely because the inner race, seperates from the bearing, as its pulled off. No amount of bashing with a cold chisel or oxy heat, will get it off. The bearing face sits squarely on the hub, so a puller cannot get a grip. Having a new hub on hand, means the car can get fixed, and not sit on jackstands while one is sourced.

Tip 3 Buy a new hub nut, when you get the bearing. I didn’t, but will be soon.

Next…the hub nut. A lot of discussion has occurred on the fact that the nut is not a locking nut, or castellated, and it sits a few turns away from the locking pin. As the pictures show, this is because it is a TAPERED nut. As it winds on, it gets tighter. It appears to be a 22mm nut, but the inside and outside bores are 1mm different as measured by Verniers. So if the nut is in good order, and torqued correctly, it shouldn’t unwind. Loctite will also help, of course.
Image Image

That’s about it…saved ourselves some decent cash, with parts and labour. The bearings and hub were from Nissan, bearings $59 and hub $280. I bought an extra bearing, as I want to do passenger side front at some stage soon.
ImageImage

Hope this helps someone in the future…once its done, sit back and enjoy beer o’clock, and the joys of doing a job yourself.
Don’t pick a 35 degree day… emoticon






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Dave
99 GU Patrol 2.8TD
Ex-2002 T30 TI Xtrail
15/Dec/2010, 9:58 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29100
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Re:


Good write-up Dave, however changing the hub is a not a requirement provided you identify the bearing problem early, 2 weeks is far too long and would certainly cause damage to the hub. I am still driving on my original hubs and I had the front bearings replaced by Nissan without any problems.

Yes the hub locking nut is treaded and we mentioned that as well, however had you left the problem any longer, this locking nut would have turned and this is exactly what causes the hub to separate from the axle.

I'm also not sure if changing one side only is a good idea, you might wanna do the other side as well while you at it.

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cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re:


Hi Dave,
Nice job, I love doing things like that.
A tip, do the other side and then get yourself a wheel alignment. Normally any time you pull anything apart from the sterring or change something, a wheel alignment is a must.
This way if you do the other side, you only have to get it done once.


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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

16/Dec/2010, 4:58 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
Robbo0001 Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2008
Location: Brisvegas, Australia
TOTAL POSTS: 1063
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Re: Wheel Bearings


Jalal,
as I said, I had already checked all the suspension and steering components, including the hub nut. It was still torqued, the pin was intact. It had NOT unwound itself.
The nut is tapered...as designed by Nissan, and with some Loctite, it will NOT unwind itself. It is a SINGLE USE item, that its meant to be replaced once its undone. The pin is a failsafe, and a damn poor one at that.
The HUB was not damaged by the bearing. Neither was the steeering knuckle, that the bearing sits in. The inner bearing race was frozen to the hub shaft, and could not be removed. The press fit is so tight, and the bearing design is so POOR, that any bearing with age will leave the inner race behind.
The HUB is currently in a freezer at work, and if I can cut the race of today, I will clean it up and use it on the passenger side.

The workshop manual is a good GUIDE, but it neglects to mention some things, and mentions other stuff that isnt required. At least in the instance of changing a wheel bearing.

quote:

I bought an extra bearing, as I want to do passenger side front at some stage soon


I did say I was doing the other side, didnt I?

Tony, my BFGs are going in for free warranty balance and allignment next week. So when I have done the passenger side, and the alignment is done, it should be sweet.

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Dave
99 GU Patrol 2.8TD
Ex-2002 T30 TI Xtrail
16/Dec/2010, 5:50 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Robbo0001 Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2008
Location: Brisvegas, Australia
TOTAL POSTS: 1063
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Wheel Bearings


After two days in a freezer at work, it still took 15 minutes with an oxy set, a cold chisel and a hammer, to get the inner race off.


Image Image

The hub itself, after a few minutes in a sand blasting cabinet to remove surface rust, is still good to use. I need to do some sanding to remove small burs I whacked into the shaft, but I will happily install this, on the passenger side.
Image Image Image

The hub bearing surface is fine, and the inner splines are fine as well, no wear or deformities.

Its not damaged hubs that is the problem, its needing the TIME to smash this bloody race off the hub, that is the underlying issue. Without an Oxy, its not possible.
Now to see how it goes on Monday emoticon

Tony...now I know how to do it (never done it before, was a tad dubious), I can go out and buy myself a Press for my shed (and justify it to the Boss emoticon )
If it does two bearings in its life, its paid for itself emoticon

Cheers

EDIT....At NO STAGE did the wheel show the standard symptoms of a failed wheel bearing. There was no lateral movement of the wheel when off the ground, the only evidence was the noise whilst driving.
The bearing needs to completely collapse to get some movement (or the hub nut is not adjusted properly). By then its way to late.

Last edited by Robbo0001, 17/Dec/2010, 1:34 pm


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Dave
99 GU Patrol 2.8TD
Ex-2002 T30 TI Xtrail
17/Dec/2010, 1:29 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 


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