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mants Profile
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Date Registered: 01-2013
Location: Perth, WA
TOTAL POSTS: 297
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Re:


quote:

jalalski wrote:

I reckon it's all relevant and for the price it is being sold for, it's quite handy to have even as a back-up unit. The dual battery system is the top solution for sure, but for someone not using it all that much it is an expensive option to go with.



Totally right Jalal.

For me over $1000 for a dual battery system just wasn't going to happen.

I don't have a fridge to run at the moment apart from a little waeco cooler but then again i very rarely use that as well.

I'm totally impressed by the unit i bought, i got a nice led lightbar that runs off 12v, it has magnets built into the back of it, so i can stick it to the car if there's no trees etc to hang the unit off. And again i got it for $30 on sale from Anaconda. Cant be bad to that.

For me at the moment ive the perfect setup for my needs, really really happy with the performance of the unit, so glad i found it.



---
2012 Nissan X-Trail ST
Precision Grey - Petrol - Manual - 4wd
4/Feb/2015, 10:27 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
dlpeek Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2010
Location: Macquarie Fields SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 973
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Re: Dual Batteries


OK. For those that may be interested and benefit from a portable power station, something similar to the powertech power station that mants has discussed in his post of 3 February with photo of the unit, have a look at the ALDI catalogue for next Saturday's special.
It has a unit for $99.00.
I'll leave it to you to check out the specifications etc.

Not everyone may be satisfied with ALDI products but I have purchased a few different items over the years and have found them of great value. My own portable power station purchased some years back from ALDI (although a completely different one in appearance from the one on special next Saturday) is still working great for the times I have used it ie.....starting vehicles with flat battery, inflating tyres on bikes, running low power LED camp lights and even powering LED prawning lights (with unit in a backpak)

Anyway, if anyone does purchase one, it would be great to get some feedback in due course.

cheers

---
Dave Peek
X-1756 (c)
2010 T31 ST-L (S2) CVT Precision Grey.
Tow Bar, bash plates, PEDDERS lift, YOKO GEO AT/S tyres.


11/Feb/2015, 5:59 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re: Dual Batteries


quote:

dlpeek wrote:
Anyway, if anyone does purchase one, it would be great to get some feedback in due course.



In the Gadget section of the forum please emoticon

---

11/Feb/2015, 6:26 am Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
WMOV Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2016
TOTAL POSTS: 10
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Re:


Hi Everyone,
Im from Newcastle, NSW
I have a 2010 T31, white, petrol 4x4
17" Wheels with 225/70/17 tyres

I have had the xtrail for almost 2 years
I picked up some 17's and fitted bigger tyres pretty soon after i got it. I was really unhappy with the duellers that were on it. to fit 225/70/17 there was a couple of places where it rubbed, but after cable tying back some plastic and a few hits with a big hammer in one spot, there is no significant rubbing.
These tyres give good squish on the beach and the bigger diameter not only helps ground clearance but also corrected the speedo which was out by 10% from the factory.

I came across this forum looking for the best way to do dual batteries, I read as much as i could from the forum and got some great ideas.

I am a photographer, so i was wanting to have power to my engel to keep things cool all day in the car, without having issues starting the car. I also have a camper trailer and get to some un-powered camp sites, so having a permanently installed dual battery would be helpful there too.

I really didnt want to waste any trunk space, and was considering a AGM battery in the spare wheel well as someone had done, but i decided instead to go with a Dual batteries under the bonnet.

I modified the original battery tray ( grinding off bits that are in the way and welding new hold down rods in place).
By rotating the original starter battery 90 degrees to the right, all the way to the airbox pipe, this left space for a slightly smaller battery to take over starting duties ( reversed terminal orientation )

I purchased a supercheap auto dual battery kit at their 20% off sale unbeatable value at $88

adding a fuse holder and some extras ( anderson plugs, fuse holder ect ) brings the

components to about $120

( tip from this forum) I brought the cable through the gromet in the firewall behind the glove box by pushing coat hanger through from the inside, lube the cable and pull it through, no need to remove anything under the bonnet to do this.

At the rear, in pulled the cables through the vent holes in the plastic near the accessory socket, and also ran two small cables back to the socket from the anderson plug installed ( so the socket now is powered all the time) .

The new starter battery is a NS60S and is 430CCA / RC 75 ( slightly down on the 55d23L that was in it already at 500CCA / RC 90 ), which will probably end up with a shorter life span than the original fittment, but is definately capable

When the previous starting battery dies i will install a marine battery / deep cycle in its place, but for now, its doing fine.

Weekend after next ill be camping and will see how long the old battery can keep the engel going before reaching critical voltage.

the link below will download a photo of the batteries etc under the hood.

DUAL BATTERIES UNDER HOOD

I hope this helps somebody else in a similar situation.

Wayne
26/Jul/2016, 7:26 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 5814
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Re: Dual Batteries


Nice job Wayne.
If you would like to replace your original battery (now your secondary battery) with a higher capacity one, go over to the Upgraded Batteries That Fit thread

---
Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
03 Titanium Ti T30 Series 1 **MODIFIED**
My Blog
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26/Jul/2016, 7:55 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
WMOV Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2016
TOTAL POSTS: 10
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QUICK Update


The old 55d23l Crapped out after 3 months as aux battery.
I think it is my fault as i had used it a few times to charge the drone battery while not running 5A and still running friddge 2.5a.
The last time i did this was when i realized it was no good, the battery drew down to 8v !! Although it was ok at the time, it must have really not liked it as a couple of days later it started off-gasing.


Anyhow, it has now been replaced with a D23LT Wet type Deep cycle battery which is an exact fit to replace the 55D23L
4/Nov/2016, 7:03 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
whip62 Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2010
Location: Bathurst, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 147
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Re: Dual Batteries


I'm looking at storing up to 2 x 130AH AGM batteries in the spare wheel well as part of a dual battery system. I have a rear tyre carrier and/or roof cage to use for a spare so this is covered. I've read through this thread and couldn't find any mention of the spare wheel well being used for this purpose so just wondering if anyone has utilised their spare wheel well to store battery/s for a dual battery system?

---
Whip
X-1712
2010 T31 Series III Manual TL Diesel Flint: Bash plates,Strut Bar,bonnet struts,Nudge Bar & lights,Bonnet & H'Light protectors,Side Steps,Roof Spoiler,Towbar,Kick plates, Pedders lift, dual battery, etc..
28/Feb/2017, 11:55 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Wiz Au Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2017
Location: Canberra, ACT
TOTAL POSTS: 185
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Re: Dual Battery placement


So I'm looking at putting in a dual battery setup.

I was spoilt with my R50 Pathfinder as I found through the FAST CD in Japan there was a 24v version of that vehicle, so Nissan actually supply as an orderable part, a second battery tray for the passenger side, (normal battery is on drivers side). So installation was a breeze as the car was made to take dual batteries in a 24v system from the start.

But the X-Trail is a much smaller vehicle, and I haven't yet looked to see if there is a 24v version in Japan, but I'll bet there is not as all the 24v systems I have seen were diesels, not petrols.

I am also not set on a fixed 'under bonnet' or in the rear section, battery installation, over a 'Portable battery box' solution (ARK Power, KickAss, etc) in the passenger footwell. Either one will have a VSR with manual 'over-ride' for emergency flat battery starting. (I don't think the T30 alternator/charging system is so sophisticated it needs a DC-DC charger rather than a VSR?)

What I am thinking of, given the new technology in starting batteries, is a 16cell AntiGravity for the car starting battery in a new location where it won't get hot - rewiring as required to connect it, and then locate a deep cycle battery where the standard battery normally fits, wired up to a Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR).

It would really help if people could fix their pictures in this thread so I can see the various options used before, or if that's an problem, maybe PM me and I can provide details to send/upload pics?

Also, any comments and thoughts over one option vs another? This vehicle will NOT be used as my main off-road camping vehicle (the Pathfinder is). This vehicle is mostly for my National Parks volunteer work, driving 700-900kms on highways then 30-80km of trails to the Park operation. Sometimes I might take my fridge with me, sometimes not, but mostly not.

Occasionally we will do short trips (2-5 hours driving only) weekend camps, 4 days at the most, and I will take the Waco 40L fridge and some LED camping lights, charge some UHF handheld CB's and the phones/tablet.

I already have a deep cycle battery in the dual battery system on the Pathfinder I could put into a Portable battery box as needed, but I think this might get tiring pulling batteries out of cars and swapping them around. I can see myself just buying another battery for tyhe battery box after getting pee'd off with pulling batteries in and out of cars every time I want to power the fridge in the X-Trail.

If I don't go the permanent 'under bonnet' solution, I will carry a 'Portable Lithium Jump Starter' with me when I don't have the 'Portable Power Pack' in the car.

That should provide some idea of what I want to do, and why a Portable Power Pack might be the best option given the irregular use? But having a fixed and permanent Dual Battery system in the car has it's advantages too. Comments?

Last edited by Wiz Au, 28/Aug/2017, 5:09 pm


---
2004 T30 series II, Ti (now sold)
JRR50 Pathfinder, QD32ETi Turbo Diesel, with 'lots o fruit'.
2012 Jeep Cherokee KK CRD Limited is current ride.
Will be looking for a white or silver 2011-2013 T31 TL (Diesel) to "pimp out".
28/Aug/2017, 5:06 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Seawind Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2007
TOTAL POSTS: 7
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Re: Re:Removal of T31 glove box


Having gone through this process with a T30, I now need to run some cables on my 2013 T31. Jalal, the problem is that I can only find 6 screws! Four inside the glovebox and two underneath. Any clues as to where the other two screws are hiding?
Charles
11/Sep/2017, 5:09 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Wiz Au Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2017
Location: Canberra, ACT
TOTAL POSTS: 185
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Re: Dual Batteries


So I now have the Matson VSR with manual over-ride, and a cabling kit at $25% off sale, and would you believe ALDI has 40Ah AGM batteries for $99 this weekend too. That will do for this little setup, don't need 100Ah.

After looking further, I think the spare wheel well is going to be the place for the second battery. Thinking about building a plywood holder for it and secure it to the holes in the spare wheel for now, cutting the Styrofoam as needed but leaving it in, as the rear compartment ' floor' tray sits on it for support, I do not want to remove it altogether.

I know it means taking the battery out to get to the spare wheel, but I'll wire it up with some quick disconnect Anderson 35A plugs (smaller than 50Amp unit) and some corro conduit. Just unplug, remove battery, remove spare wheel if ever needed.

Thinking of coming down the passenger side inside the car from the VSR, and putting new sockets on the left side of the rear compartment, leaving the right side factory power outlet 'switched' to the main battery as a backup.

Any one got any comments, BTDT?

---
2004 T30 series II, Ti (now sold)
JRR50 Pathfinder, QD32ETi Turbo Diesel, with 'lots o fruit'.
2012 Jeep Cherokee KK CRD Limited is current ride.
Will be looking for a white or silver 2011-2013 T31 TL (Diesel) to "pimp out".
19/Sep/2017, 1:05 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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