Runboard.com
You're welcome.
Australian X-Trail Website Members Rides

Site Search

Facebook Aussie Forum Website Twitter Aussie Forum Website YouTube Aussie Forum Website Flickr PhotoBucket MSN Messenger Skype RSS Feed Events Calendar Admin Mailbox Nissan Australia myNissan Capped Service Fuel Consumption Monitor Tyre Size Calculator Australian X-TRAIL Forum Live Chat

Forum Rules   
   Register for a free global account (learn about it) | LOG IN: globally (click here) (Lost Password?)




Page:
 1  2  3 ... 6  7  8  9  10 

 
Ecstrail Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 05-2014
Location: Riverina, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 46
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Re:


As my Xy is only 5 weeks old with less than 1500 klms, how do you know when the DPF is in re-generated (burn mode)?





---
2013 runout TL, Diesel with manual gearbox
19/Jul/2014, 11:30 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Exywarrior Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL FANATIC
 


Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: Darwin, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 325
Reply | QUOTE
Re:


It's normally quite easy to know when a DPF regen is occurring.

The most obvious thing is that you will notice that the fuel consumption meter will show a marked increase in fuel consumption....that's the easy telltale sign. Additionally I've noted a slight change in the engine note at idle, but it's difficult to discern until you've been used to the engine's noises. Given a part of the burn process is to deliberately change the timing to increase the amount of unburnt fuel going into the DPF (this is what causes the regen), there is also a very slight loss of power but it too can be hard to notice.

If someone is travelling behind you, they will note a small puff of whitish smoke come from the exhaust which is indicative of a DPF burn occurring.

It's not necessarily a bad thing to finish your trip and shut the car down in the middle of a DPF burn; the ECU will simply reprogram the DPF burn to complete the next time you run the car. However I've made it the practice that if I think a DPF burn is occurring, I'll take an extra 10 mins on the road at 70kmh plus to give the regen a chance to complete. I acknowledge though that not everyone has the time to do such a move but I believe it helps.
If you do happen to shut down mid-regen you will notice it through the exhaust smelling rather hot. It is very noticeable. But don't worry, it's all normal!

If you're a regular runner on freeways and highways you might only rarely see a DPF burn happen at all. One of our other regular contributors who also lives in Canberra says he has only seen 1 or 2 DPF burns in nearly 80,000km; I guess he's lucky. I see one about once or twice a fortnight.

DPFs have been in service for decades worldwide. They're nothing to worry about as long as you realise that they have certain requirements that need to be met to keep them healthy...that is, use the right oil, keep the revs up, use good grade diesel, don't tread too lightly (let the turbo do the work!) and above all, give her a good run on a highway at least weekly.

I notice you've got a manual. Your real enemy is using 6th gear below 100kmh. My advice: don't do it. Keep the revs at 2000 plus to keep the EGT high.

Last edited by Exywarrior, 21/Jul/2014, 6:26 pm


---
Mark T
2011 Series 4 T31 TL Auto - Twilight, factory towbar, factory mats, tinting, Cooper CS5s, cathodic protection, paint protection, yada yada...and no Provent
X-2099
21/Jul/2014, 6:18 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
AugustusXTrail Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL ENTHUSIAST
 


Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Cowes Phillip Island Victoria
TOTAL POSTS: 123
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPFs


HI guys, the M9R is no tractor diesel engine, it is a free reving high performance diesel and needs to be driven as such or you'll have more than DPF problems.

All diesels will suffer from varnish, how much is up to you.

Use quality Diesel, I use Caltex Vortex Premium wherever I can.

Use an additive, I use FlashLube Diesel conditioner, I know these are messy so pre-fill the little bottles from the bulk container at home and only have the little ones on board ready to use.

Give this engine a real hard time, I know I can hear you all saying oh but it will wear it out, so far from the truth, if you baby this engine it will varnish up in no time and you will be up for a rebuild before it should be due, and it will all be due to clagged rings from varnish. So give it hell every now and then, get the cylinder temps up and keep them up occasionally. If you never tow it it is even more important to load this engine up.

And hey why did you buy a high performance diesel if your not going to enjoy it every now and then! emoticon
28/Jul/2014, 12:18 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Exywarrior Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL FANATIC
 


Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: Darwin, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 325
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPFs


Totally agree with Augustus. This engine likes to sing!

I use a fuel additive too - Liqui Moly Diesel Clean and Boost has worked extremely well for me. $30 buys 1000 litres worth of fuel conditioning and it seems to do everything the product says it will. It cleans the fuel system, increases the cetane index of the fuel and it makes it burn cleaner (less smoke and unburnt fuel = less stuff for the DPF to handle).

Diesel engines like to be worked hard!

---
Mark T
2011 Series 4 T31 TL Auto - Twilight, factory towbar, factory mats, tinting, Cooper CS5s, cathodic protection, paint protection, yada yada...and no Provent
X-2099
28/Jul/2014, 5:53 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Brotherontherun Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 07-2013
TOTAL POSTS: 34
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Re:


quote:

Ecstrail wrote:

As my Xy is only 5 weeks old with less than 1500 klms, how do you know when the DPF is in re-generated (burn mode)?






Don't worry about it, we were all the same when we first started out, you will know the difference soon enough. Or I try and convince myself.

I do a lot of freeway driving. I only notice it when I come to a stop and notice the smell, so instead of turning the xtrail off i just let it idle. I still cant pick it on the freeway. 22K later no light thanks to the tips mentioned before.

Cheers

---
Brotherontherun (X-3226)

2013 TL Snowstorm White, Auto
Now with 6.5 inch splits, 6.5 Co-axils, Amp & 10 Inch Sub
29/Jul/2014, 9:07 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Lesrob Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 08-2014
TOTAL POSTS: 2
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPF, EGR and Air filter problems


G’day,

Unfortunately I’m the owner of a 2012 diesel x-trail. I bought it with less than 3000km on the clock at the end of 2013 and it has done 25000km.I like driving it, but it has been the most troublesome car I have ever owned.

It has had the engine warning light on for more than 5 months and been back to the dealer numerous times. The 1st time the code showed an EGR problem. I was eventually told that they had approval to replace the EGR under warranty, however after the job had been done they told me they had only cleaned it. Very soon after the DPF warning light came on so I took it for a freeway drive (110km/hr) but the light wouldn’t go off and before I finished the drive the engine light went on as well.


Back to the dealer and the analyser showed DPF malfunction. The dealer managed to turn off the DPF light but not the engine light. They eventually did a forced regeneration but did’t do an oil and oil filter change (found out later that they should have). Engine light still on and was told to take it for a long drive again. No joy. After more trips to the dealer Nissan Aust. eventually agreed to replace the DPF under warranty. After 6 weeks still no filter and nissan can’t get one from Australia or Japan. After 8 weeks Nissan Australia gave the dealer permission to source and fit a non genuine filter!! After 5 months with the engine light on and no cruise control they eventually fitted a after market filter a few days ago (they even gave me a loan car for the 1st time). Picked the car up and the engine light was off but I still had no cruise control. They told me that they had also changed the engine oil. Why? They couldn’t tell me why. The only reason to do this is because they thought they had used the wrong engine oil at the 20000km service or making up for the change that should have been done with the DPF regeneration. After driving about 15 km the cruise control started working and the engine light came back on! They should have put new temperature sensors on the DPF but they reused the old ones.

The workshop is going to take my car again on Monday and keep it for a few days to try and sort it. In the meantime I have done some research on the internet and have found a very interesting document from Nissan Australia about the M9R engine at

http://ahto42.planet.ee/M9RTrainingManual.pdf

Here are some excerpts:

If for any reason the exhaust system is to be removed – try to avoid the removal of the DPF temperature sensors. Once they have been unscrewed from their position THEY ARE NOT TO BE RE-USED! ************************************************************************************************************ Summary of Basic Service Operations This chart quickly summarises all typical repair tasks that could possibly be required on a T31 X-TRAIL M9R. Locate the repair or repairs that were carried out on the vehicle in the left side column. Once located, refer to what Basic Service Operations are required to be carried out to support the original repair. Failure to properly complete the repair & replacement procedure could easily result in an unsuccessful repair or a repeat failure. EXAMPLE: If a new DPF unit was fitted to the vehicle & then immediately handed back to the customer, yet the “DPF Data Clear” operation w as NOT carried out with CONSULT III, the new DPF will more than likely be damaged due to the Automatic Regeneration operation being carried out at an inappropriate time. NOTE: With exclusion to the Road Test & the NATS Key Programming, details on how to complete all of Basic Service Operations are found in Section EC – “BASIC INSPECTION” of the Service Manual. *1 It is MANDATORY that the Engine Oil & Filter is changed once the Service Regeneration has completed. *2 The “Lack of Power” complaint maybe caused by a non DPF related issue. Refer to page 63 of this manual (DPF Pressure Difference inspection) to determine if the problem is DPF related or not. *3 Refer to the ESM & carry out the inspection procedure of P2002. (Monitor the 2 x exhaust temp sensors & “DIFF EXH PRES” (differential pressure) in DATA MONITOR. ******************************************************************************************************* ENGINE LUBRICATION & COOLING SYSTEMS • Do NOT refill the engine with engine oil TOO FAST. During servicing, add the engine oil slowly, it otherwise will spill out of the filler neck. • Do NOT start the engine until the new oil that was added to the engine has settled to the sump. If the engine is started too soon after filling, the oil may be sucked into the combustion chamber via the engine breathing system. Allow 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, start the engine, wait until the oil pressure light goes out (should only be a few seconds) & then stop the engine. Wait a further 10 minutes to ensure the engine oil has settled back into the sump. Do NOT allow the engine to be overfilled. The Engine Oil Level must be EXACTLY ON THE FULL MARK. • It is quite common to find that most electronic oil dispensing systems utilised in many workshops are NOT ACCURATE! A slightly overfull oil level can CAUSE SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE! • Ensure that ONLY a 5W 30 ACEA C3 Low Ash - Full Synthetic engine oil is used in this engine. *************************************************************************************

Not waiting a full 10 minutes for the oil to settle may explain the problems people are having with air filter contamination, EGR blockage and DPF failure. Why is this waiting period not mention in the handbook?


lesrob

2012 T31 diesel
18/Aug/2014, 11:52 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Charlie250 Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL ENTHUSIAST
 


Date Registered: 08-2012
TOTAL POSTS: 193
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPFs


quote:

AugustusXTrail wrote:

HI guys, the M9R is no tractor diesel engine, it is a free reving high performance diesel and needs to be driven as such or you'll have more than DPF problems.

Use quality Diesel, I use Caltex Vortex Premium wherever I can.

Use an additive, I use FlashLube Diesel conditioner, I know these are messy so pre-fill the little bottles from the bulk container at home and only have the little ones on board ready to use.

Give this engine a real hard time, I know I can hear you all saying oh but it will wear it out, so far from the truth, if you baby this engine it will varnish up in no time and you will be up for a rebuild before it should be due, and it will all be due to clagged rings from varnish. So give it hell every now and then, get the cylinder temps up and keep them up occasionally. If you ,never tow it it is even more important to load this engine up.

And hey why did you buy a high performance diesel if your not going to enjoy it every now and then! emoticon



I agree!

Since my first EGR "issue" early on in the vehicle's life, (which occurred because the first 1800km was driven in an urban environment at 80km'/h or less) I've had no further issues since it was eventually fixed by replacing the butterfly valve.

The highly relevant factor in this is that the subsequent km have been chiefly driven at highway speed (100-110km/h)

Like Augustus, I use Flashlube and also change my oil & filter mid service, so that my oil never does more 5000km. Oil is cheap engine insurance, pure and simple.

In western NSW & Qld, I encounter lots of road trains upto 3 trailers and "quads" (2 B Double sets joined together) all towed by a single prime mover, for an overall length of 53mt, so when it comes to overtaking, a decent squirt from 4th and or 5th gears, before dropping back into 6th ensures no cobwebs ever develop.

Every service manager I've discussed DPF's with in my travels, has advised that nursing the vehicle at low RPM will cause dramas.

I've never experienced any sudden spike in fuel consumption indicating regen, or been able to detec anything suggesting regen is even taking place with mine, nor have I ever detected any puffs of smoke.

So maybe the combination of everything listed above means mine doesn't get a chance to carbon up.

Either way once you warm the engine up, you must give it a good poke with the right foot to from time to time keep it running smoothly.




Last edited by Charlie250, 19/Sep/2014, 12:57 am


---
X-2634 2012 Series IV TS Man, Kings Springs, Bridgestone D697's, High Tech Exhaust, Turbo Timer, DBA Slotted Rotors, QFM HPX Pads, Tow Bar, Cargo Barrier, UHF, HID Dr Lights, LED Light Bar, K&N Filter, Bonnet Struts, & Premium Tint
11/Sep/2014, 12:52 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
koleos Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 09-2009
TOTAL POSTS: 34
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPF, EGR and Air filter problems


quote:

Lesrob • Ensure that ONLY a 5W 30 ACEA C3 Low Ash - Full Synthetic engine oil is used in this engine.



Interesting, Renault are recommending using ACEA C4, a cleaner burning oil than C3.
C3 is listed as MID SAPS whilst C4 is LOW SAPS.
Renault spec RN 0720.

As an example: (5W30 oils)
Penrite C3 sulphated ash is 0.7%
Penrite C4 sulphated ash is 0.5%

Last edited by koleos, 10/Oct/2014, 2:43 pm
9/Oct/2014, 10:17 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Exywarrior Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL FANATIC
 


Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: Darwin, NT
TOTAL POSTS: 325
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPF, EGR and Air filter problems


I suspect that ACEA C4 vs C3 is a bit like API service SL vs SJ. The higher the rating, the higher the specification.

What this means is that ACEA C4 probably exceeds the specifications of ACEA C3 and therefore would in all likelihood be a better oil.

Anything with lower ash content has to be better for the DPF system.

---
Mark T
2011 Series 4 T31 TL Auto - Twilight, factory towbar, factory mats, tinting, Cooper CS5s, cathodic protection, paint protection, yada yada...and no Provent
X-2099
15/Oct/2014, 5:30 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
koleos Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

X-TRAIL NEWBIE
 


Date Registered: 09-2009
TOTAL POSTS: 34
Reply | QUOTE
Re: DPF, EGR and Air filter problems


quote:

Exywarrior ....
Anything with lower ash content has to be better for the DPF system.



That is a given.

What I was hinting at was the M9R engines and EFI software would have been developed collaboratively.
When my 2008 Renault Koleos came out the operating manual also stated C3.
All Renault dealers now use RN720.
What does Nissan NOW use?
More than likely RN720?
If so, collective knowledge should be advocating the newer lower ash oil to lengthen DPF life?


15/Oct/2014, 6:31 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 


Reply




Page:
 1  2  3 ... 6  7  8  9  10 





You are not logged in (login)

forum sticker
Back to top Back to top

Back to top

<-- end container -->