|
|
Re:
The current shape and design is very good too and it covers a larger area under the car. The current T30 bash plate is made in Europe just like the T31 ones are.
The previous manufacturer was in Taiwan and they closed down a long time ago, so it is irrelevant on who it was.
|
|
1/Nov/2012, 8:12 am
|
|
|
|
Re: T30 bash plate
quote:
jalalski wrote:
Dear T30 Owners,
I have successfully negotiated a deal with the existing T31 bash plates manufacturer to produce T30 Bash Plates for us and am happy to report that they will be available in stock and can be purchased through the Online X-Trail Shop within 1-2 months.
A shipment is being organized for 20 T30 bash plates as I type this.
This is how the T30 Bash Plate looks like and you can tell straight away that is larger than the previous version and protects the entire front section of the exy. It also includes the oil change access hole. Made of 2mm Steel and weighs 10Kg, it will be the perfect investment to protect your exy off-road.
The other good news is that this larger bash plate will be priced at almost the same price as the other one (shorter style) we had. Based on the calculations so far the new bash plate will be priced at approx. $490.00
You can start reserving your bash plate by adding your name to this thread or sending an email to the Online Shop page HERE
Hi Guys,
Only a small quantity of the T30 Bash Plate left in stock, so if you are thinking of scoring one, now is the time to order it before they are all gone.
|
|
23/May/2013, 6:35 pm
|
|
|
|
Re:
Only 3 T30 Bash Plates left in stock! Order them HERE
|
|
23/Jun/2013, 6:56 pm
|
|
CharlieXT
Date Registered: 10-2011
Location: UK
TOTAL POSTS: 81
|
 | 
|
|
Re: T30 bash plate
Hi - Well as promised update, just finished install of sump guard prototype  I will do a more detailed writeup when time. I tried a couple of designs and settled on something similar to Jalal's T30 guard http://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/t124399,offset=100
I dug out some bits of card from the recycle bin and made a mock up to find out sizes, etc. Once happy with this I cut up some ali "fivebar" tread which I had left over from one of my Land Rover projects. I used a 4 1/2 inch angle with a 1.2 mm steel cutting disk (or slitting disk) to cut the basic shape. Aluminum tread plate is quite strong though not as tough as steel, but would do for this prototype.
I used stainless fixings with nylocs for the bracket with standard washers, same for mud guard mounts but with penny washers on the top because of the plastic. The front uses two stainless socket cap 6mm sets and two 8mm socket cap screws, but hex head setscrews would be fine. Bolts are not fully threaded, hence using set screws.
Once I had cleaned the edges with a flap wheel on the grinder, I took the cut sheet to a fabricator and they put the two folds in for me. Then I drilled the front fixing holes so they were slotted front to back so the stainless sets would go in straight, the ali being at angle to the front cross member on the horizontal. I offered the guard up to check the hole alignment and the measurements for rear bracket.
I also marked off the amount to cut away for the wheel arch guards and fixing points. There is a hole on the offside guard to fix through but not on the near side, again it was out with the tape measure so it would fall halfway across the fold at the bottom of the plastic. Once fitted I drilled a hole up through the plastic for the fixing bolt.
I found the exhaust was close to the guard so marked out a slot to allow more space. I used a jigsaw which was not the easiest thing to cut "fivebar", be warned I had a problem keeping it inline, and nearly cut to much off  even with the blade meant for the job.
I made a bracket from one of the offcuts from the original sheet, as this was a prototype I was not to worried about the design of this, but I kept it simple. I used the measurements from a cardboard template and the 6mm holes drilled in the guard to fit the bracket. I did have to shorten the fixing lugs to clear the exhaust, but it also made it easier when it came to remove the bracket. I may go for a two hole fixing, when improving the design.
The end result while not perfect, in from part to using "fivebar", it does what I set out to do. It has made pretty clean and tidy sump guard and though I suspect I will tidy it a bit more. As yet I have not decided whether to go with any drain holes ? When I get time I will get some flat ali or steel to make the full version 
Last edited by CharlieXT, 29/Jul/2013, 5:33 am
---
2.2 YD ETi SVE - Geolanders AT-S - Whispbars - Sumpguard - CB - Mod Exhaust
|
|
28/Jul/2013, 10:05 pm
|
|
cooch t31
X-TRAIL HOLIC
Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
|
|
|
|
|
Re:
Nice work Charlie.
If you do decide to go to steel at least you have a really good template to go off.
--- Tony X-891c
HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1
|
|
29/Jul/2013, 6:05 am
|
|
|
|
Re:
Top effort Charlie. Well done mate.
|
|
29/Jul/2013, 6:58 am
|
|
cooch t31
X-TRAIL HOLIC
Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
|
|
|
|
|
Re:
Try a local 4X4 shop, you never know your luck, it doesn't hurt to ask. After all if they don't sell them they might know somebody who does.
--- Tony X-891c
HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1
|
|
18/Feb/2014, 5:05 am
|
|
