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krocjp Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2017
TOTAL POSTS: 10
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Re: Changing CVT oil - Saving lots of money


I have done approximately 1500klms since I did a full flush, filter change and pan clean out on my 2011 T31 CVT transmission. It has now done 110,000 Klms. Very happy with the results. The transmission is noticeably quieter on smoother. The service kit is available from Repco, (On special now for $50.39). It contains a pan gasket, screen filter and fluid filter. It did not have the large ‘O’ ring from behind the heat exchanger. This is available as a Mitsubishi part No. 2920A096. The part No. for the service kit at Repco is GFS1110. I purchased 16 litres of Penrith V CVT fluid at Repco some weeks ago on special for $192. At present it is $70 for 4 litres. The process was to drain the pan, (5.5 litres), Remove and clean the pan and the 2 magnets, change the screen filter and replace the pan with new gasket. Fill the transmission with new fluid. (5.5 litres). Then remove the battery and battery tray to get access to the heat exchanger. Remove the heat exchanger and replace the filter and large ‘O’ ring. Replace heat exchanger. Replace battery tray and battery and connect battery terminals. Then with the plastic sump cover off, remove 5 plastic studs from the front panel bottom where it attaches to the chassis. You can pull it down about 100 m/m and wedge it with a block of wood or similar. This gives enough access to the return hose from the transmission cooler where it comes through the chassis on the 2 fixed solid tubes. The return line is the bottom tube. Remove this hose and extend it with a suitable tube connectors and short length hose into a suitable container. Check that there is enough fluid in the transmission on the dip stick. Get someone else to start the engine and stop when 1 litre is pumped out. This takes about 10 seconds. Add 1 litre of new fluid. I repeated this 5 times. The last time, new fluid was pumping out. In total I used 11 litres. Replace the hose on the transmission cooler and replace the covers. Because I had purchased 16 litres, I did another drain and fill after 600 klms. I have no doubts the Penrite CTV. V fluid will do the job. Only time will tell.
Cheers
P.C.

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Peter, Member No. X-5158
Newcastle N.S.W.
T31, 2012, Precision Grey, Ongoing Modifications
7/Jun/2019, 4:02 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
miahill0991 Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2019
TOTAL POSTS: 1
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Re: Changing CVT oil - Saving lots of money


Hi, Ive read your post and I'm so glad that I have seen that I'm not the only in the Philippines that is thinking using some alternative oil the car. I'm gonna test out my car.
24/Jul/2019, 3:58 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29100
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Re: Changing CVT oil - Saving lots of money


quote:

miahill0991 wrote:

Hi, Ive read your post and I'm so glad that I have seen that I'm not the only in the Philippines that is thinking using some alternative oil the car. I'm gonna test out my car.



Please make your first post in the introductions section of the forum which allows you to introduce yourself and your Exy and be assigned a Member ID. Thanks

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10/Aug/2019, 9:58 am Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
arczi85zg Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2019
TOTAL POSTS: 6
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Re:


Hi all, i have xtrail t31 from 2008 m9r engine with 6 speed automatic gearbox. Can i add a cvt cooler to mine car?
26/Oct/2019, 10:45 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
herbii Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2020
Location: Turill
TOTAL POSTS: 2
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Re: Changing CVT oil - Saving lots of money


hi there all.
I am an extremely new member but have been reading for the last year since purchasing my T31 Ti 2.5l cvt. I have had issues with it since covid started. would have got it tested if i lived closer to town. I agree with penrite oil, i whole heartedly agree with the extra cooler at the front, which mine had, but i would also recommend a thermo fan either permanently on or if you are electronically minded then a thermo switch set at whatever the recommended operating temp of the cvt would be.
 OVERHEATING is the enemy here!!!

on another note though, I replaced the whole valve body in mine after a few other attempts to fix. does anybody know if i need to reset the TCM, or ECU, and if so is there a manual way to do this?

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Martin
2008 X-Trail Ti T31 2.5L CVT
winch bar, side steps, exotic lighting
roo country
4/Aug/2020, 11:27 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
roid Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2017
TOTAL POSTS: 103
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Re: Re: hard to say


If you talk to trans engineers, they will tell you lots of scenarios that cause transmissions to fail

Too much heat is always a problem, however too little heat in the case of a CVT may mean materials are smaller when cold (friction surfaces are brittle and/or yet to expand), which is the reason for the beehive in the first place. It provides fast warmup direct from the cylinder head, as well as consistent cooling- as it receives a consistent flow of coolant that is thermostically controlled inside a tight temperature range.

In the case of the 4-port beehive, Nissan added cooling capacity for conditions where the transmission gets hotter than originally imagined. These things are usually done to solve some problems in the field, most likely driveability, or wear, either encountered during initial warm-up, or in extremely hot or punishing conditions.

Wear surfaces all have specific heat ranges, so the coolers are carefully designed to keep them neatly within these, regardless of operating conditions. Newer transmission designs, like everything else in a modern car, are becoming increasingly fickle. If I had a T31 w CVT, I would use Nissan's second design too. I can't see any major limitations, and is no doubt carefully engineered to the CVTs needs.

Might want to be careful with a 3rd party external cooler though, it should have a valve in it (if not in the beehive) to stop it cooling fluid when the ambient conditions are too cold. Not a problem in the Philipines though!

Last edited by roid, 14/Sep/2020, 3:40 pm


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05 T30 ST-X Auto
205/75x16 A/Ts on 6.5" ET40
200k: Refreshed suspension,fuel, ignition & cooling systems
Often good & dirty as is lifted 35mm on Sachs Automatics & poly bushings
Northern Sydney, NSW
8/Aug/2020, 7:10 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
TopGun65 Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2015
TOTAL POSTS: 208
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Re: Changing CVT oil and both filters- Saving lots of money


I changed the oil and filters in my CVT for the third time (filters for the first time) now, and Graeme, your post helped a great deal. It's done 195,200 ks and the Penrite oil came out clean, nice and red. There was nothing in the sump apart from the thin grey metalic layer on the bottom and the magnets had the usual fine metallic powder on them. The internal fine metal gauze filter was clean with no particles in it. The external filter was easier to get to once the air filter intake, battery and battery tray were removed. I didn't have to drain the cooling system as it already has the 4 port cooler, and once the 4 cooler bolts were removed, the cooler moved enough to allow the filter to be replaced. The external filter I bought was a "Cooper" brand and it came with the cooler housing large "O" ring. The filter inside the external cooler also has a rubber grommet type seal which comes with the filter. When removing the old filter from the transmission, be sure to check this rubber seal comes out with the old filter. Mine stayed in the transmission and had it gone unnoticed, it could have caused problems when inserting the new filter, and possibly long term problems as well. The internal 3 filter bolts, sump bolts and the 4 cooler bolts need very little tension on them. I'm not sure what the tension for them is, but I tensioned them all to 6 Nm. Keep in mind they are small bolts. I refilled the transmission with Penrite CVT V Full Synthetic Auto Trans Fluid. Hope this helps someone attempting a CVT double filter and oil change.




Last edited by TopGun65, 20/Dec/2020, 7:46 pm


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Eric
X-4282 (c)
Glen Alpine, Sydney
2010 T31 Cvt STL
15/Sep/2020, 7:27 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
enfermero Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2021
TOTAL POSTS: 2
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Re: Changing CVT oil - Saving lots of money


Hi, my 2nd post, I’d like to ask a question about changing the CVT filter. I thought I’d use this existing thread because there are some good accounts of fluid drain and fill, and installation of the improved 4 port heat exchanger. Moderators, if I’ve put this in the wrong place, please delete or direct me to put my post somewhere more appropriate.

So my 2008 T31 has 210K km, and previous CVT service history is not known. It runs and drives well, but there’s definitely some low level cvt whine, and I’m aware that this is in the series that had plenty of CVT failures….but at 210k this exy hasn’t done too bad. If anything is going to go, it’ll be the CVT, so have dropped all the oils. T/case and rear final drive oil came out clear, and I refilled with nulon 75W-90. CVT fluid was dirty as you’d expect.

One spill & fill plus 40km and the colour of fluid was much better. I’m using Penrite full synthetic CVT V, which is a red colour fluid, meets the NS-2 spec, and seems a popular choice. The usual grey stuff in the pan and on the magnets, and the screen only had a few small particles. Everything cleaned up fine. I’d normally use a new one to save time, but my Trans kit is stuck interstate in the mail, so it’s perfectly acceptable to clean and reuse the old screen.

The transmission cooler filter which picks up the finer particles surely must be in need of a change, so I have a Ryco RTK304 which seems of reasonable quality. Reading forum posts here and elsewhere, there seems to be a couple of different approaches to getting at that little ‘beehive’ heat exchanger, undoing the 4 mounting bolts, and changing the paper type filter.

From the excellent posts further up, clearly the battery tray needs to be removed, and access to the lower bolts seems via the LH inner guard, after removing the inner panel. I’ve read (and watched a youtube vid) that one way to remove the battery tray is disconnecting all the ECU/TCU connectors, and another is by leaving these intact and unbolting the two ecu/tcu modules from the battery tray.
The air intake apparently needs to come out, and there may be other steps that need to be taken. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I’m wondering from any members that have actually carried out this procedure, which way is easiest and best? I'm interested in hearing of peoples experiences. Did anyone encounter any unexpected issues when changing the filter, eg poor access to the 4 bolts, the O-ring (which doesn’t come with the new filter..grrr), were the connectors a tad fragile…., did anything break, did the eXy not start afterwards etc…

Changing this tiny little filter does not look like a 30 minute job! More like 2-3+ hours, so I’d like to draw on others experience. I'm betting the dealerships would charge a bundle!

I have done a number of forum searches, but couldn’t find anything specific or detailed, especially of any difficulties or issues. Sorry for the long post, I’ll try to keep the next one shorter

Regards emoticon


Last edited by enfermero, 13/Sep/2021, 12:22 am


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Brett X-6082 SA
T31 ST Petrol 2.5L CVT
Nov-08 build
13/Sep/2021, 12:16 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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