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Sxytrail Profile
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Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 54
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How soon did you change to full synthetic oil?


I was wondering how soon kms wise have people changed to full synthetic oil in their new Xtrails? I had my first 6 month service done with 5800 kms on the car and the dealer put castrol mineral oil in it, originally when i bought the car they told me they would be using semi synthetic oil but i guess they are assuming it would of had 10000 kms by then. Anyway when my next 6 month service comes around it will have 10000 - 12000 kms on it and i want to change to full synthetic, most probably Nulon 5w30 or maybe Castrol edge 5w30. Im pretty sure by the time the car has done 10000kms it should be fine to change over then.

---
Daily : 2012 T31 series V, 2.5l, manual X-trail.
Genuine side steps, thats all for now...
Weekend fun car : 2002 S15 200SX / Silvia GT spec R with plenty of mods.
21/Aug/2013, 9:14 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
DogTrail Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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Re: How soon did you change to full synthetic oil?


It may be too soon to go fully synthetic. The cylinder/rings interface likes to play with the possibilities for a while as they hone each to the other.

Why? Glazed cylinders has been mentioned.

Some forums advise against synthetic oils for the first few thousand Km. as they interfere with the bedding in process.

Maybe the manufacturers recommended oil is the best one for that motor?

Edit: from unreliable memory, my dealer has always charged me a small fortune for a Castrol blend which is not commercially available at the usual shops but which is recommended by Nissan for the 2.5 L motor, i.e. a 10W30 blend.

Further edit: I looked it up in the books and so far , the invoiced Magnatec 10w30 from the Dealer has worked for me with zero oil usage between services and shows completely clear oil on the dipstick at 26K .It is now almost due for the third periodic oil change on that motor.

Last edited by DogTrail, 23/Aug/2013, 5:02 am


---
2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
22/Aug/2013, 11:18 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 54
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Re:


^^ I would think 10,000 to 12,000 kms would be enough for the rings to bed in.

---
Daily : 2012 T31 series V, 2.5l, manual X-trail.
Genuine side steps, thats all for now...
Weekend fun car : 2002 S15 200SX / Silvia GT spec R with plenty of mods.
23/Aug/2013, 8:25 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
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Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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Re: Re:


quote:

^^ I would think 10,000 to 12,000 kms would be enough for the rings to bed in.



I would have expected the same, however, going by fuel consumption figures over time on my motor, in that instance the actual experience does not fit that theory.
Also, I thought the 10w30 was semi-synthetic anyway.

Economy improved the most after about 15000 Km but I could not say whether the improvement was because of the freeing of the motor or the gearbox.

It will differ from motor to motor and by how hard the rings are worked in the first 10,000 Km or so before the first oil change at 10k.

I used a conservative approach and the figures show that this engine has settled into returning about 12 Km/L (or 8.5 L/100 Km ) after 25,000 Km.

The first 1,000 Km I could not get below 10 L/100 Km - then it gradually became better.

In my own particular experience, fuel economy / mechanical efficiency gradually improved after about 10,000 km and rapidly improved after about 15,000 km of use. That was about the time I shifted from 91 to 98 octane rated fuel which carries its own cleaners.

I cannot see it getting better than the current (at 25,000 km ) economy of about 12 Km/L or 8.5 L/100 Km.

On a good flat (ideal) cruise it uses markedly less than 8 L/100 Km but that gets blown on the averages.

If it starts to deteriorate from that I'll consider going 100% synthetic in order to try to hold the engines optimum wear/bedding at that point for as long as possible.

Part of that fuel economy improvement is my learning how to use the CVT transmission and part is due to the motor/gearbox spinning better as it is all run in.

Note: Short trips are hard on fuel economy.
Changing from 91 to 98 octane had a marked and lasting improvement on fuel economy.
A cold gearbox adds 10% to fuel consumption even after the engine has warmed up.
At a guess, even in my warm climate, I don't expect this car's parts to reach efficient operating temperature under anything less than 15 km of usual driving.

It's working well for me at the moment and I'll try to keep it at its optimum run in efficiency for as long as I can before it runs out. emoticon

Last edited by DogTrail, 26/Aug/2013, 12:48 am


---
2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
25/Aug/2013, 8:03 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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Re: Re:


quote:

I had my first 6 month service done with 5800 kms on the car and the dealer put castrol mineral oil in it, originally when i bought the car they told me they would be using semi synthetic oil but i guess they are assuming it would of had 10000 kms by then.



On first read, the above didn't ring any alarm bells. Re-reading it, I can hear the bells.

Some forums recommend mineral oil for the first 1,000 km to enhance the bedding/run-in process, then synthetic or semi -synthetic thereafter.

Not the other way around, as is suggested by your post.

Are you sure your Dealer switched from the recommended oil at the first service?

I was assuming that you were getting the same oil from your dealers warranty service as I do from mine, i.e. the Magnatec professional 10w30 - at least, that is what I'm paying for each time - according to the invoice.

That oil is a semi-synthetic with enhanced shear factors and is supposed to stick to cylinder walls to reduce start-up wear and is supposed to be the recommended Castrol oil for the model. (It is an easy Castrol Google).

There are cheaper Castrol oils (e.g. GTX 10w40 ) which are adequate but do not quite fit the preferred requirements of that motor.

What oil did they give you at the last service?

Last edited by DogTrail, 28/Aug/2013, 12:29 am


---
2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
28/Aug/2013, 12:02 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 54
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Re:


On the invoice it said castrol xt oil, which I haven't heard of so. I looked on the castrol website and found nothing so then I googled it and found it. It says it is a high quality mineral oil 10w30, so im thinking they used this because the car only had 5800 kms on it and they are being cautious about changing to synthetic too soon but as I said by the time the next 6 months service is due it will have 10,000 - 12,000 kms on it which should be plenty of time for the rings to bed in and be ok to change to synthetic. Still nobody has really answered my original question of how early or even when they changed to synthetic oil.

---
Daily : 2012 T31 series V, 2.5l, manual X-trail.
Genuine side steps, thats all for now...
Weekend fun car : 2002 S15 200SX / Silvia GT spec R with plenty of mods.
28/Aug/2013, 8:46 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
mfeodoroff Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
Location: Brisbane
TOTAL POSTS: 305
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Re: Re:


quote:

DogTrail wrote:

I was assuming that you were getting the same oil from your dealers warranty service as I do from mine, i.e. the Magnatec professional 10w30 - at least, that is what I'm paying for each time - according to the invoice.





I've had services at different dealers. One has used Castrol (Magnatec) and another has used Valvoline (I can't remember which product off the top of my head).

I've heard that if you're switch from mineral to synthetic that the system should not just be drained, but flushed as well. Is this correct?

Cheers,
Mark

---
Mark (X-2639)
2011 ST Series IV 4x4 with CVT in Precision Grey
Cooper CS5s, Tinting, Towbar, Bonnet Protector.
Mods: Steering Wheel Lights, Bash Plates, DBA Slotted Rotors


28/Aug/2013, 1:36 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
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Date Registered: 07-2013
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 54
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Re:


You dont need to flush the engine when changing from mineral to synthetic, if a dealer says this it is only because they want more money out of you. The amount of oil left in the engine when drained is minimal anyway, people change brands of oil without flushing ive done this myself with no problems on many cars. Its nearly like saying if you change brands of fuel you should flush the fuel system !!

---
Daily : 2012 T31 series V, 2.5l, manual X-trail.
Genuine side steps, thats all for now...
Weekend fun car : 2002 S15 200SX / Silvia GT spec R with plenty of mods.
28/Aug/2013, 6:33 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
mfeodoroff Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
Location: Brisbane
TOTAL POSTS: 305
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Re:


Thanks sxytail.

I think there's a fundamental difference between changing brands, and mixing different technologies emoticon
 
The flushing requirement didn't come from a dealer but rather one of those 'back of the mind' things that I can't even remember where the tip came from! I think the original train of thought may have been a rumoured incompatibility between mineral and synthetic, possibly from and old-school mechanic many moons [sign in to see URL] given the residual amount in the sump, etc after a long drain then I wouldn't have thought it would matter myself.

---
Mark (X-2639)
2011 ST Series IV 4x4 with CVT in Precision Grey
Cooper CS5s, Tinting, Towbar, Bonnet Protector.
Mods: Steering Wheel Lights, Bash Plates, DBA Slotted Rotors


28/Aug/2013, 9:05 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
mfeodoroff Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
Location: Brisbane
TOTAL POSTS: 305
Reply | QUOTE
Re:


Thanks sxytail.

I think there's a fundamental difference between changing brands, and mixing different technologies emoticon
 
The flushing requirement didn't come from a dealer but rather one of those 'back of the mind' things that I can't even remember where the tip came from! I think the original train of thought may have been a rumoured incompatibility between mineral and synthetic, possibly from and old-school mechanic many moons [sign in to see URL] given the residual amount in the sump, etc after a long drain then I wouldn't have thought it would matter myself.

---
Mark (X-2639)
2011 ST Series IV 4x4 with CVT in Precision Grey
Cooper CS5s, Tinting, Towbar, Bonnet Protector.
Mods: Steering Wheel Lights, Bash Plates, DBA Slotted Rotors


28/Aug/2013, 9:05 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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