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jexy05 Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
TOTAL POSTS: 17
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Re: Re:


mine was dripping for sometime, it's more of a pain to re-fill the oil than it being a major issue but that would depend on how bad the oil leak is, I would suggest fixing it when you can.
19/May/2014, 9:30 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
valkie Profile
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Date Registered: 04-2014
Location: Central Coast NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 84
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Re:


I just had the service technician have a look while doing the 100k service.
He said he couldn't find any leaks other than a bit of oil coming out of the vent between the transfer case.
There was no actual leak, just residue, he thinks it may have been overfilled at some stage.

All levels were ok and as it has been sitting in my garage for the last three nights after a long trip and towing my boat, he suggests I leave it until I actually get a leak.

Thanks for your help.

---
2010 T31 Series III 2.5 White Automatic CVT
A vehicles real purpose in life is to tow a boat
Guy Fawkes is my hero (Born 13/4/1570, Murdered 5/11/1605)
He was only trying to do the right thing
19/May/2014, 1:49 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Montys Mate Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2009
Location: Raby, Sydney
TOTAL POSTS: 34
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


Hi everyone. My 2006 STS has just developed an oil leak and it's coming from the oil cooler region. The leak at the moment is very minor and intermittent. First noticed a few drops of oil on the driveway, then it would go for a few days and no drips, then a few drops would appear again.
The car has 228,000klm on the clock and still performs very well.

I contacted local Nissan dealer and was quoted $978 to supply only. The gasket to the engine mounting was extra. I checked eBay for used and found one going at a wreckers for $650. Not prepared to risk that sort of money on something that could fail the next day. My wife wanted to know why I had gone a whiter shade of pale when I had got off the phone.

Anyhow, I think a little more investigation is warranted before I have to make any hard decisions on replacement.

There was an earlier thread on the subject by Sentinelenter, and Jalaski replied with the oil cooler diagram from the manual showing the component parts.

I am still trying to get my head around how the oil cooler works.

Looking at the diagram the water enters and returns through the top of the cooler, and it appears that the oil enters and returns through the bottom section that bolts to the engine block.

My question at this point is:
1. If an oil leak occurs, would I be correct in assuming that it would be at the gasket bolting to the engine block?

It looks that my leak may be coming from this area.

2. Can oil leak from the top section? If so, would there be oil/water mixing?

John A H posted photos of the top section separated:
3. Would oil or water leak from this section?

4. The silicone O ring appears smaller than the recessed groove. Does it stretch to fit the groove?

Nissan do not have a repair kit, which should be the sensible thing to do.
5. Can RTV Silicone Sealant be applied to the gasket and O rings to stop the leaks?

6. Would this pose any problems?

Thanks for any advice or info.

Cheers,
Graham

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Graham X-1364
2006 ST-S, White Diamond
4/Jun/2014, 1:05 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
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Date Registered: 08-2009
Location: Raby, Sydney
TOTAL POSTS: 34
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


I finally worked out how the oil cooler works.

After a lot of web searching and frustration for the two internal O Ring seals to suit the cooler, it came up blank.

The gasket to fit back to the engine block is available from Nissan, Part Number 21304-8H700. Nissan call this a Rubber Ring??? It is a flat plastic gasket with four bolt holes and the inlet/outlet holes for the oil. Cost $[sign in to see URL] from my local Nissan dealer who were very unhelpful on the internal O Rings.

During my web searching I came across Nissan spare parts enquiry site. So I asked if someone somewhere in Nissan had any knowledge of the internal O Rings and where they could be sourced. I gave the dimensions of each O Ring from UNM's post. I got a very quick reply from Von Bibra Nissan from Robina in Queensland. They weren't able to supply the original O Rings but had two that were very close to size which were for the Pathfinder.

Large O Ring OD 77mm, ID 67mm, Thickness 6mm. This is a flat cross section ring. Part Number 21304-JK20A.

Small O Ring for top bolt OD 30mm, ID 24mm, Thickness 3mm. This is a round cross section ring. Part Number 21334-30F00.

I got both O Rings including postage for just under $30

Following the procedure in UNM's post I decided to have a go at doing the repair myself. I object to paying nearly $1000 for a new oil cooler plus fitting by Nissan.

I jacked the car up as far as I could and also used jack stands.

* Removed right wheel and shroud for access.

* Drained the radiator by at least half the coolant.

* Disconnected the power steering pressure hose. You will lose the power steering fluid. Tray under to collect fluid. Make sure to keep the two copper washers. I put a sock over the hose end to protect and keep clean. 24mm socket to undo. Although the manual doesn't list this step it makes the job a lot easier to get the oil cooler out, particularly when laying on your back.

* Disconnect oil pressure switch wire.

* 12mm socket to undo the four bolts fixing cooler to engine block. The cooler came away very easily and the gasket fell off. A sock over the end for protection and to keep clean.

* I left the water hoses connected to the oil cooler and disconnected from the other end and removed the clamps from hoses. I put tape around the hoses to keep them together. I tied a long cord around the hose ends so I could follow the same path when putting the hoses back after the repair. There is no extra length in the hoses. They have to go back the way they came out. It would be extremely difficult to put the hoses back onto the cooler from under the car as indicated in the manual.

It's hard to see what's happening to the water hoses as you extract the cooler. There are wires and harnesses nearby, so if the hoses won't move check if the hose bends are not caught up.

* Oil Cooler and hoses are now removed from car. Untied the cord from the hoses and let hang.

* Scratch a line on the top and bottom of the oil cooler housing for realignment after repair. I also marked which hose went onto which water inlet/outlet on the cooler top. Removed the two hoses and taped them together to retain the assembly position.

* I could see an oil stain mark on the cooler housing where the oil had been leaking. It was only a fine line, but it indicated where the O Ring had failed.

* Before removing the top bolt I degreased the oil cooler housing to removing all dirt and grime.

* Removed top bolt which was very tight. The top and bottom of the cooler separated very easily. Cleaned up to remove oil residue.

* New large O Ring: 2mm larger in diameter (77mm) than the original (75mm) and it was a nice tight fit into the track. To ensure and hope there would be no leaks I covered the O Ring track with Dow Corning Silastic Gasket black sealant then fitted the O Ring. Applied the sealant to the surface of the bottom section also. Silastic sealant also to the new O Ring for top bolt. Fitted together and tightened top bolt, ensuring to align the scratch marks on housing. I didn't use a torque wrench, just tightened as much as I could. Some sealant squeezed out. Application of the Silastic sealant and tightening had to be completed within 5 minutes.

* I left the sealant to cure for 3 hours before reinstalling.

* Tied the cord to the hose ends and fed the hoses through. It was more difficult reinstalling than it was removing, but the cord gave me the right path. It took a lot of twisting and manoeuvring. Had to pull the cord from above and then push from under to get hoses through. Attached hoses and clamps at water pump and heater connections.

* Fitting oil cooler to block: Inserted the four bolts through cooler then slid the new gasket over bolts. Finger tightened bolts, double checked gasket then tightened with 12mm socket.

* Reattached oil pressure switch wire.

* Reattached power steering pressure hose (don't forget the copper washers).

* Refill the power steering reservoir to the max cold level. Air bleed system by turning steering wheel to left and right lock several times. You should notice the fluid level drop in reservoir. Top up to max cold level.

* Refill radiator coolant.

* I double checked that everything was connected.

* I then degreased to remove power steering fluid and oil residues.

* Started the engine and prayed for no leaks.

* Refitted shroud and wheel and went for a drive. Done about 200km so far and all looks good.

Thanks to Jexy05 and UNM for their posts which gave me the gumption to have a go.

Note about the O Rings:
The original large O Ring as seen in John A H's photos shows the top side of the O Ring. When removed and turned over the underside is moulded to the oil cooler shape. The new O Ring is not moulded as it is not intended for this oil cooler, but it fits the track very snuggly.

During my web searching I did come across the large O Ring Part Number 21304-JK20A several times but no measurements were given. So thankfully, Gary from Von Bibra Nissan was able and willing to assist.

When I started this job my wife put a swear jar next to the car. It looks like there is enough there for a night out next week!
 

      




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Graham X-1364
2006 ST-S, White Diamond
22/Jul/2014, 4:41 pm Link to this post Send Private Message
 
jexy05 Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
TOTAL POSTS: 17
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Re:


fantastic, im glad to hear that it worked for you,
I didn't find it that hard to do and I reckon I would have put a few bucks in a swear jar if id used one but anyone thinking of giving it a go it's well worth it,
thanks for updating the info and hopefully it saves someone else some heartache in the future.
23/Jul/2014, 10:02 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
jexy05 Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
TOTAL POSTS: 17
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Re:


update:

I have found a small leak again from the oil/water temp stabiliser (oil cooler), it's only just started to drip again and nowhere near as bad as it was last time but seeing as I fixed mine with an O-ring last time and that it's done 15k since then I think it was somewhat successful, it's a shame that I now have to do it again, but with the right (sort of) seal. (thanks go to MONTY for his excellent posted reply)
I have since contacted my local Nissan dealer with the part number for the main (large) seal listed above and found it is available for $[sign in to see URL], although the guy in the parts dept. was a bit surprised as it's not the usual parts order.
I will be re-doing the unit again so I will keep you posted with pictures and update when I have completed the job.
cheers. Jex.
8/Sep/2014, 5:28 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
jexy05 Profile
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Date Registered: 09-2012
TOTAL POSTS: 17
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


ok, have been asked for an update so here goes,
found the oil cooler / temp stabilizer was dripping a bit again so i went to Nissan and purchased the o ring from the patrol as per the earlier post,
pulled it apart same as last time and fitted the new o'ring although this time i also used a bit of silicone to ensure a good seal,
it worked great and after another 2000k trip it's dry and working well,
i also deleted the water hoses as one of them was wearing a little bit and there have been no ill effects from doing that.
the guy at Nissan was a bit surprised that i knew about the seal and what i was going to use it for after i told him but for the cost it was worth another shot,
all worked out well.
22/Dec/2014, 9:35 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
gcd1966 Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2014
Location: Australia
TOTAL POSTS: 14
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


Hi,

I need some help, I'm not sure how much strife I'm in, I forgot to do this step :

* Scratch a line on the top and bottom of the oil cooler housing for realignment after repair. I also marked which hose went onto which water inlet/outlet on the cooler top. Removed the two hoses and taped them together to retain the assembly position.

Any suggestions on how the top and bottom line up ?. I see a hole in the top section and may line up with the hole in the bottom section ?. Or am I up for a new oil cooler ?

Cheers
Glenn


Last edited by gcd1966, 11/Jul/2015, 5:44 pm


---
Member ID: X-4013
2006 T30, X-Trail Extreme
Brisbane
11/Jul/2015, 5:43 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Montys Mate Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2009
Location: Raby, Sydney
TOTAL POSTS: 34
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


Hi Glenn,

Thank goodness for the Runboard messaging otherwise I would not have seen your post.

I haven't been onto the forum since last Nov. We have sent the T30 off to a new home (our daughter) and we have now got a BT50.

The T30 has put on about 25000km since doing the oil cooler and no leaks. It still runs as good as the day we bought it in Jan 2009 when it had 39000km on the clock. It now has 250000km.

The T30 was a little too heavy on fuel pulling the caravan which is only 1200kg.

I have tracked down the photos that I took while doing the job. There a couple that should help with the re-alignment.

I will reply to your Runboard message and try to workout how to post the photos.

Cheers,
Graham


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Graham X-1364
2006 ST-S, White Diamond
12/Jul/2015, 2:47 pm Link to this post Send Private Message
 
gcd1966 Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2014
Location: Australia
TOTAL POSTS: 14
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Re: fixing an oil cooler leak


Hi Graham,

Thanks for the awesome post, you've managed to guide me through the process with your great write up. emoticon

All the Best
Glenn




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Member ID: X-4013
2006 T30, X-Trail Extreme
Brisbane
12/Jul/2015, 6:11 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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