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jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re:


Thanks Kev, I actually found out that the Euro cars DRL system comes with a dimmer, so they don't actually turn-off fully when the headlights come-on, they just dim and blend-in with the headlights. But since the LED strips we are using are sitting away from the headlights, turning them off completely might be a better option.

Now to find that ignition wire in the engine bay...

Last edited by jalalski, 12/Jul/2012, 8:44 am


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Translucidus Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


Hmmmm - for those who might benefit from my experience:

I installed a pair of 8 LED, ADR approved, Daytime Running Lights on my XTrail for several months ago and have been meaning to post details here.

They don't look all that stylish but I couldn't find a better place to mount them.

They look like this:
Image

I mounted them using double sided tape under the top of the lower radiator air intake as far to each side as I could. An ADR (see end of this post) specifies the location parameters for these lights.

I wired them via a circuit that allows them on only when the ignition key is at least at "Accessories" so they are on when the engine is running and also via a relay that switches when at least the Parking Lights are on so they switch off when any other exterior running lights come on.

I did this by running a wire from the Cigarette Lighter main supply to power the DRLs via a relay powered from the lighting circuit of the Cigarette lighter so that when the parkers or headlights are on the relay turns off the DRLs. (this means you need a "Normally On" relay)

The two powered leads from the Cigarette Lighter unit are protected by 5 amp fuses and also each has a diode (1N404 from memory; any 1 amp silicon power diode will do) in series to protect the car from back emf from the relay coil. There is also a diode across the relay coil to suppress back emf. You need to wire these diodes the correct way around ie the coil diode is reverse wired so as to not short out the coil and the other two from the cigarette lighter are wired so they conduct.

All this circuitry is mounted on a terminal block behind the drivers left kick panel and the cable to the DRL goes through the usual firewall grommet behind the glovebox.

I wired this way to avoid attaching any wire to any ignition, main lighting or driving circuitry of the car - rather the harmless cigarette lighter circuit which should never cause any safety or drivability problems. It's also simpler as you can see location wise. Circuitry is tucked away away from weather and engine heat.

I find they are great and others who have driven in front of me on the road and on bush trails say they are quite bright and sometimes they see the DRLs before the car.

It saves having Taillight/Number Plate/Parking Light/Headlight and numerous dash light bulbs all on and getting closer to burning out, when its daylight but you need to be more visible.

In spite of what ADRules say I've noticed that many new cars dim the DRL when headlights/Parkers are on. Also they sometimes selectively dim the DRL near the Amber direction indicator when it is flashing.

Some cars also switch them on only after car has first begun to move or after a short (~10 second) delay after starting just to be sophisticated.

There is an ADR that says no more than 3 pairs of lights may be at the front of a vehicle ie a Pair of Parkers (called position lights in ADRs), a Pair of Headlights and also a Pair of Driving lights (spotties). Perhaps this is why they must switch off when the above are on.

Working on having mine dim when the headlights are on - should be easy; just parallel a resistor from the cigarette light wire.

Appearance:
Image

Image

Image

Image

In the image below the black thing with two thick red wires is a fuse carrier, the grey wire (red and black inside) goes to the DRLs, the Blue connector at top is the earth for the relay which is mounted behind the black plastic top left and the grey wire (red and black inside) to the left goes up to the cigarette lighter power and light terminals. The yellow wires are from the relay. Some of the connections on the white terminal block also feed the UHF CB radio and a 12 volt power outlet (2 cigarette lighter sockets and a 5volt usb). The bracket is fabricated to hold the terminal block and has felt strips either side to stop rattles.
Image




a good read about DRL's is here:
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/mpaine/drl.html

also:
Daytime running lights need to have certain characteristics regarding the angles of light emission, candela output (no more than about 1,200 and no less than 800 from memory - Australia is behind other countries' specs and are still at 400 to 800 candelas equal to about a 35watt bulb that projects as specified)

ADR section as follows:

6.19. DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP (Regulation No. 87) 12/

6.19.1. Presence
Mandatory on motor vehicles. Prohibited on trailers.

6.19.2. Number
Two.

6.19.3. Arrangement
No special requirement.

6.19.4. Position
6.19.4.1. In width: that point on the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis which is farthest from the vehicle's median longitudinal plane shall not be more than 400 mm from the extreme outer edge of the vehicle.

The distance between the inner edges of the apparent surfaces in the direction of the reference axes shall not be less than 600 mm.

This distance may be reduced to 400 mm where the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1,300 mm.
 
6.19.4.2. In height: above the ground not less than 250 mm nor more than 1,500 mm.

6.19.4.3. In length: at the front of the vehicle. This requirement shall be deemed to be satisfied if the light emitted does not cause discomfort to the driver either directly, or indirectly through the devices for indirect vision and/or other reflecting surfaces of the vehicle. (In other words doesn't shine in the drivers eyes)

6.19.5. Geometric visibility
Horizontal: outwards 20° and inwards 20°.
Vertical: upwards 10° and downwards 10°.

6.19.6. Orientation
Towards the front.

6.19.7. Electrical connections
The daytime running lamps shall be switched ON automatically when the device which starts and/or stops the engine is in a position which makes it possible for the engine to operate.

The daytime running lamp shall switch OFF automatically when the front fog lamps13/ or headlamps are switched ON, except when the latter are used to give intermittent luminous warnings at short intervals.

Furthermore, the lamps referred to in paragraph 5.11. are not switched on when the daytime running lamps are switched ON.

5.11. The electrical connections must be such that the front and rear position lamps, the end-outline marker lamps, if they exist, the side-marker lamps, if they exist, and the rear registration plate lamp can only be switched on and off simultaneously. This condition does not apply when using front and rear position lamps, as well as side-marker lamps when combined or reciprocally incorporated with said lamps, as parking lamps and when side-marker lamps are permitted to flash.


Last edited by Translucidus, 12/Jul/2012, 9:47 pm


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2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

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12/Jul/2012, 9:19 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


Kev,

What if I wire the DRLs this way?

Image

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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


Here is my wiring diagram.

Jalal - I think it would apply to what you are trying to achieve. If you are sure of what you are doing, simply (In the Circuit Diagram) replace the connector for cigarette Lighter +12V with Ignition and Cigarette Lighter Light +12V with Parkers as per the labels.

I would advise using the protective diodes because relay coils can produce thousands of volts when de-energised. The Diodes protect attached circuits and as you seem to be intending to connect to the ignition circuit in some way this needs to be done properly. Back EMF can cause all sorts of problems when not properly dealt with in complex systems such as the XTrail electronics.

Diodes such as "1N5822BP Schottky 40V 3A" from Jaycar should be OK and are only around $1 each.

It's much safer to connect as I have done because the Cigarette Lighter circuit is non-electronic and provides all the switching voltages needed in one spot.

Image

You can also buy DRL controllers on eBay and elswhere. Some have remote control for various (illegal) effects. This might actually be the easiest and cheapest solution.

eg for Less than $25 incl postage from USA
Mobilistics™ Daytime Running Lights Controller. Perfect for Standard Low Beams or Aftermarket LED Strip Lights.
The DRL-7 can be used for any vehicle with low beam headlights. It will not effect normal light switch operation or dim the clock or radio display while in use. Only the low beams will operate. Dashboard or Tail Lights do not stay on while in use. The system simply delivers power to the low beams 30 seconds after the ignition key has been turned on giving you time to start your engine and run. A positive (+) trigger wire connects to a parking light (+) and turns off the DRL when the light switch is turned on. Another trigger wire can be connected to the emergency brake light negative (-) or a "grounded when pulled" switch at the emergency brake. This will turn the DRL off while parked with the engine running. An additional on/off switch can be used (not supplied).

    • 30 second delay after vehicle has been started prevents loss of battery cranking power.

    • Emergency brake override allows deactivation of the system while parked with the engine running. Optional connection that is not available on most DRL control modules.

    • Headlights "on" override bypasses the system completely while your headlights are switched on.


Last edited by Translucidus, 12/Jul/2012, 11:56 pm


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2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .

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Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 5787
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


quote:

jalalski wrote:
Kev,
What if I wire the DRLs this way?



Yes Jalal that is exactly what my diagram showed...
Pins 85 & 86 are the relay coil and get powered by the lighting circuit (parkers) and it does not matter which way you connect the + or -
Pin 30 is the common contact of the relay and is connected to 12V Ignition (not direct to the battery)
Pin 87a is the Normally-Closed contact of the relay and connects to the DRLs.

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Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
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jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re:


Thanks Guys. Need to check the garage if I already have a relay handy and head to Jaycar to grab some diodes as Peter suggested.

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Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 5787
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


Jalal, you really only need the one around the relay coil to handle the back EMF when the relay is switched off. Easiest to fit too.

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Translucidus Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
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Re: DRLs (Daytime Running Lights)


quote:

Revhead Kev wrote:

Jalal, you really only need the one around the relay coil to handle the back EMF when the relay is switched off. Easiest to fit too.



Agree in this situation.

When you look at the XTrail Service Manual Diagrams there often is a diode across solenoids and relay coils. Essential to wire them the correct way otherwise they won't pass the "Smoke Test"

The arrow points to +Ve and the bar is the positive end for this purpose.

Image

I solder mine right up close to the base of the relay directly on the contacts before pushing relay onto socket or you could do this which is probably better if you need to replace relay - make sure to slip some insulating tube over the exposed wire (eg green earth spaghetti).
Image

You actually do need the additional diode in the +12v lead if this wire goes to anything that has electronics.

Image

Looking through the Service Manual circuit diagrams, the circuits have literally dozens of diodes in exactly the same situation as diode D1 above (the upper diode in series and normally conducting). Most are at the interface with an electronic module of some kind and not even involved with a solenoid - but are needed to protect the module. Involve a relay or a solenoid and it is most wise to have the series diode.

Last edited by Translucidus, 14/Jul/2012, 3:56 pm


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2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .

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jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re:


I ended-up connecting the DRLs to the air sensor, so they come on and turn-off with the ignition and there is a slight delay when they turn off when I switch off the engine which is a bonus and provides a bit of lighting to the front of the car when you leave.

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dbobbyd Profile
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Date Registered: 01-2013
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 31
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Re:


Jalal, do you have a link to a post where you modded the parker lights with LED's, I was considering doing the same to mine and curious as to what you used. Cheers

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