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Odzi Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2011
Location: Melbourne Eastern Suburbs
TOTAL POSTS: 23
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Re:


Thanks Tony,
Perhaps Barry can throw some light on this?
Bye for now

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Willem X-2038 (c)
Twilight 2011 STL Petrol Auto
23/Oct/2011, 1:41 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
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Date Registered: 08-2011
Location: Melbourne Eastern Suburbs
TOTAL POSTS: 23
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Re:


Just to close this part of the thread.
I have been advised that this behaviour of the throttle cutting when applying the manual lever on the controller is 'normal'. The electronics of the throttle control determine that throttle and brake should not be applied at the same time and cuts the throttle control for a second.
In fact it is the same behaviour as when applying brake with your left foot whilst your right foot is on the throttle.
Learning every day emoticon

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Willem X-2038 (c)
Twilight 2011 STL Petrol Auto
24/Oct/2011, 11:31 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
Johngqld Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2011
Location: Caboolture, QLD
TOTAL POSTS: 297
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Re: Adding a brake controller


Hi To All,
           When I started looking for a brake controller, I thought the Prodigy P3 was the way to go until I found out that people were complaining of their brake lights being on overnight. I settled for a Hayman Reece Guardian which is a Tekonsha Primus IQ re badged. After extending the all the cables to a usable length, I went about looking for somewhere to mount it. Didn't like under the dash, so with a bit of effort, it is mounted in the tray above the Koason. Never used that tray for anything in particular.

 I've taped the wires together to form a harness to come down from there to where the 2 for the battery go through the harness grommet into the engine bay. This is done by piercing the rubber with a small Phillips driver and using a pull through to get the cables through. I ran the cable for the trailer plug by lifting the left hand sill panels as there is plenty of room for additional cables. I was able to get it over the left wheel arch and along in between the box which holds the jack and the inside trim. From there across under the rear cover strip to the right side of the Xtrail. Although there is the grommet in the spare tyre area, I have opted to drill an additional hole and add a new grommet as this is directly above the existing harness to the trailer connector.

 For the stop light connection, I opened up the harness at the left front door and joined into the Yellow cable there. After soldering and insulating, retaped the harness as though no one was ever there. In the picture you can also see the mods I did for the Steering Wheel controls.

 The supplied 20 Amp breaker came with a mounting which when drilled out, went neatly behind the nut which secures the TCM to it's mounting bracket. The trailer connector which Nissan fitted allowed the 20 amp cable to fit with no problems. On that note, the Nissan Harness has a blue wire in it for the brakes. You can obviously join into it in the back left corner if you can get access.

Just need a van to try it with.....

The unit mounted in dash.....Image

The cables exiting to the engine bay....Image

The cable exitting the tyre well.....Image

Stop Light Connection....Image

Circuit Breaker Mounting on TCM Bracket......Image

John

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X-1834 (c)
2010 Series 3 CVT Diamond Black. Tow pak, Nissan Nudge Bar, Bonnet and headlight Protectors, Fog Lamps, Radiator Protection, L/H Cargo Drawer,Rear Spoiler, Koason DVD/GPS, Pwr Window Delay.

1/Jul/2012, 1:45 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
sneds Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2013
Location: Victoria
TOTAL POSTS: 13
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Re:


Hi All,

I'm looking at installing the P3 into my t31 Ti as well and was looking at doing it similar to how John has done it. I don't want to drill into the dash at the moment and thought I might mount it in the pocket with the flip down door where the USB connector is (under the stereo). There is already a rubber grommet to feed the wires through and I can close it when I don't want to see the wires. The unit will only be attached when the camper is being towed.

I noticed that most people are connecting the stop signal wire on the unit to the rear plug and John tapped into the harness near the front passenger door. I was hoping to go to the source and use the switch on the brake pedal.

Is there a reason people don't do this?

And if I do do this, does any body know which switch (there are 2 on the pedal, brown and black, assume one is for the lights and the other for the transmission lock) to use and which wire is the correct one on the correct switch?

Picture of Brake Switches
Image

Cheers,
Callum

Last edited by sneds, 22/Nov/2013, 11:13 am


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Callum X-3413
Melbourne, VIC
2012 Nissan Xtrail T31 Ti
22/Nov/2013, 11:06 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
sneds Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2013
Location: Victoria
TOTAL POSTS: 13
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Adding a brake controller


Hi Guys,

Does anyone have an answer for with switch to use and which pin on that switch is needed to connect to the brake signal?

I'm trying to wire it up this weekend, so an answer soon would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Callum

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Callum X-3413
Melbourne, VIC
2012 Nissan Xtrail T31 Ti
30/Nov/2013, 4:28 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
cooch t31 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re:


Use a test light Callum to see which switch activates the brake lights.
Never hooked one of these controllers up but surely it came with instructions.

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Tony X-891c

HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1

1/Dec/2013, 6:52 am Link to this post Send Private Message
 
Translucidus Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
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Re: Adding a brake controller


Regarding the 2 Brake Pedal Switches.

Disclaimer - I am not a Nissan Tech guy so don't trust any of the following. It is what I worked out by looking at the service manual and may not be correct. You are dealing with the Brakes, ABS, ESP, and Shifter Safety interlock systems and so tapping into the Brake pedal switches is NOT recommended by me!!! You have been warned.

The left one is the Brake switch for ESP, Cruise etc etc - DON'T USE.

The Right one is for the Brake lights and also for the Shifter Interlock Mechanism!!!
If your game - and willing to confirm it is correct - perhaps use terminal 4 as it seems to simply switch 12 Volts to the the Shifter Solenoid when the brake pedal is operated which would seem to be the ideal signal to the controller. However the Solenoid coil may introduce a "Back EMF" at times to the controller (there is a diode across it BUT!) and this may damage it (the controller).
Brake switch terminals 1 & 2 to the brake lamps - Terminal 1 of the switch is 12v always on. Terminal 2 switches the 12v to a relay that is associated with the ABS system so that is Not Advised as well; in my mind.

Image

click on the image for full size:
Image

This is probably why No-One has used either switch!!!

Due to the obscure wiring and connectors of these brake switches, I would suggest you don't attempt to attach anything to either switch.

Tapping into the rear Brake Lights wire (The Yellow one mentioned) by the left sill or the rear trailer plug may be a safe way to go as others in previous posts have had success here.

Remember if you blow the brake light fuse the car goes into Limp Mode.

Also Be Aware that when you Manually operate the Brake Controller (Move the Slider etc) it changes the Brake input wire to a Brake Light Out wire sending 12 Volts ie it is meant to be connected to the rear brake lights so they go On when the Manual Braking is used!!

So the rear trailer plug would be the safest point, as I believe it is powered via an isolation module that separates the cars electrics from the trailers. In any case it is correctly carrying the Stop Light signal with regard to the ESP system relay function (who knows how this behaves and why it is in series with the brake lights).

Last edited by Translucidus, 15/Feb/2014, 8:10 pm


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2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .

3/Jan/2014, 9:21 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
Translucidus Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2010
Location: Adelaide
TOTAL POSTS: 599
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Re: Adding a brake controller


Currently wiring in my brake controller.

To see where and how I boldly mounted my Tekonsha Primus iQ Electric Brake controller see second post HERE:
preview:
Image

For info:
Connecting the Brake Signal wire:
Some-one here mentioned tapping into a Yellow Wire in the Wiring Loom under the Passenger side door sill.
Looking at the circuit diagram above, I located connector B11 which is higher up on the left of the Glove Box and can only be seen when Glove Box is removed.

Image

Pin 9 has a Yellow wire so lower down in the harness is an easier to get at location rather than under the door sill.
The thick yellow wire is the one I added and goes to the Brake controller.

Image
HOWEVER there are 2 Yellow wires there and also perhaps the same two wires in the loom under the sill!!!

To investigate what each wire was doing, I carefully removed just enough insulation (about 1mm on one side only) to check with a multimeter probe.
I discovered that one indeed has 12v when the brake pedal is depressed BUT the 12v Remains on for 10 seconds!!! Don't use this one!!! I resealed the insulation with some silicon "Magic Tape".
The other Yellow wire seems to go straight to the rear brake lights and it has 12 Volts, on and off with the Brake Pedal, with no Extended On.
This correct one, I confirmed later, would easily light up a 15watt 12v bulb (and the brake lights dimmed just a little as confirmation) so I was glad I tapped into that one.
I used a thicker yellow wire and soldered it carefully to the correct thin yellow wiring loom wire with a temperature controlled Soldering Iron and sealed that connection with some more magic tape.
The message here is be ultra careful selecting the correct yellow wire and then making the connection without damaging the other many thin wires in the loom. If you aren't experienced then you would be wise to just get the "brake on" signal from the trailer plug itself like many have done already.

You can also see a thick red wire (my 50amp cable to Anderson plug at tow-bar) and the Thick Black cable is a pair of 25Amp wires to the 7 pin flat trailer connector (to Earth-pin 3 + Electric Brake wire to pin 5-electric brakes).


Here is my ever growing collection of cables going through the large Grommet in the firewall behind the Glove box.
- Thick red is a 50Amp (via a Battery Isolator) for the caravan Auxiliary Battery and 12Volt Fridge whilst travelling.
- Thin grey wire is a pair to run my Daytime Driving Lights.
- The Black cable is a pair of 25Amp wires for Battery +ve & -ve(earth) supply to Brake Controller.
- The other thinner black cable is the UHF Coax to the UHF Antenna.
Image
Note how my wires pass through on an angle up and to the left so as to not ever scrape and damage the thick wiring loom as some have reported doing elsewhere in this forum (their X-Trail did strange unfortunate things after the damage!!!)
Up and to the left also makes the wire enter the Engine Bay to the left side of the Air Cleaner box and it is easy to retrieve the wires there rather than some other places you could end up poking them. Just shine a bright light down that side of the Air Filter Box and you can actually see the Grommet and wiring loom.

I ran the wiring to the rear of the car by going across the interior firewall just behind the heater unit to the left side as per the above photos and down along the wiring loom under the left side door sills that easily lift up.
I needed to partially remove the rear cargo area lower left side large plastic trim panel (the one with the Auxiliary cigar lighter plug) in the rear cargo.
- pull out the rubber door seal,
- remove the rear door sill (the one with the door catch)
- remove the "tie down" hook bolts/screws etc
- the rest are just clips so using a small pry bar lever out the plastic and pull it out a little to get at the cavity behind - you can't completely remove it without removing the rear seats!

If you have a tow-bar already installed then there will be a grommet passing the wiring out just behind the foam molding that holds the Jack.
There is another grommet plug just below it.
It is very thick, like a plug, so remove it and replace it with a suitable size thin one from somewhere. I used a shock absorber rubber bushing/washer and glued it over the hole with Liquid Nails then sealed the wires with silicone afterwards!
Any wires you want to pass out to the rear just poke them down through the hole and they will appear just behind the left rear bumper at left rear corner.
When finished, cable tie them to existing wiring to trailer plug to keep them away from the heat of the muffler.
Also house them in a cable tidy (a black corrugated plastic split thingy) where they go around the back corner of the metal (First place to get crushed in a rear end crash).

Connecting the wires to the trailer connector and the Battery etc has been covered by others so I have just added my variation on the job.

The only extra connections I made was to have a 30amp fuse as well as a 20amp auto-reset breaker at the battery +ve for the controller supply and I also ran an extra earth wire from the Brake Controller to a point near the controller and the same one I used to earth my UHF CB to help avoid interference between the 2 units (due to earth loops) in addition to the negative battery terminal.

Last edited by Translucidus, 26/Jan/2014, 9:57 pm


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2007 X-Trail T31 ST-L

Xy going vertical at Bendleby Station . . .

22/Jan/2014, 3:47 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
nuked Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2013
TOTAL POSTS: 27
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Adding a brake controller


quote:

Johngqld wrote:

Hi To All,
           When I started looking for a brake controller, I thought the Prodigy P3 was the way to go until I found out that people were complaining of their brake lights being on overnight. I settled for a Hayman Reece Guardian which is a Tekonsha Primus IQ re badged.




Hi. Looking at installing a P3 Tekonsha in my T30. I just read this post regarding brake lights staying on. Can anybody tell me whether this is model related or whether there is a fix? Thanks.



Last edited by nuked, 2/Apr/2016, 12:11 pm


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2006 T30 ST- Extreme auto
2/Apr/2016, 10:07 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 
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Date Registered: 11-2013
TOTAL POSTS: 27
Reply | QUOTE
Re: Adding a brake controller


Is this issue regarding the P3 making lights stay on more expansive in another post? Thanks

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2006 T30 ST- Extreme auto
3/Apr/2016, 5:15 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message Blog
 


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