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Toddyh03 Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2011
Location: Lalor Park, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 1663
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Re: Handbrake Question!!


Find some gravel or grass and try it. I doubt it would do anything as all it usually does it cut the power to certain wheels. You don't need power to do a handbrake turn, just [sign in to see URL] so I've heard emoticon

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Toddyh X-2048 (c)
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waky53 Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2005
Location: Barossa Valley
TOTAL POSTS: 284
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Re: Handbrake Question!!


JUst give the steering wheel a good turn then yank up the handbrake which should lock the rear wheels & let them slide.
To practice, Give yourself plenty of room & find a slippery surface like grass/gravel until you have it down. The main thing is a bit of speed that you can turn into momentum for the turn.
I used to do it years ago in motorkhanas in my mini & they were mainly on bitumen in carparks. Couldn't have them nowadays as the shops are all open on Sundays now.

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Regards Dave, X162 Oct 04 Series 2 ST
Mods Strut bar_Fuel cap holder_earth wires_No door beep_Bonnet Struts_TBS_bash plate_16" Alloys_Rear sway bar_ F&R fogs
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DogTrail Profile
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Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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posticon Re: Handbrake Question!!


quote:

I used to do it years ago in motorkhanas in my mini & they were mainly on bitumen in carparks.



Aaah, memories....

I used to have a hot Mini.

I'll have to find a large area of gravel & fling the Exy about a bit emoticon

Last edited by DogTrail, 8/Feb/2014, 3:48 pm


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2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
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nananut Profile
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Date Registered: 12-2011
Location: Kalgoorlie, WA
TOTAL POSTS: 366
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Re:


Found this on the net.
]Handbrake adjustment

What can cause the handbrake shoes to wear out other than driving with the handbrake up? The mechanic said the shoes needed to be replaced. It has been getting harder to keep the car in park with the handbrake up to the max. I'm putting the car in 1st gear now every time it's parked.

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Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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Re: Re:


Well that is a revelation to [sign in to see URL] Link.

Two sets of brakes on the back wheels: One set of discs for normal driving plus a set of drums dedicated to the handbrake !

I would never have imagined that setup in a month of Sundays.

That design should see the handbrake dedicated shoes last for the life of the car - unless driven with the handbrake either up (which should set off the warnings) or partially up (enough to lightly engage the brake but not enough to set off the warnings).

I do seem to recall once hearing an annoying "bong" sound until I noticed the red light on the dash readout indicating the handbrake was on.

In that instance, it was still up 2 clicks owing to my sloppy release.

Last edited by DogTrail, 2/Sep/2014, 6:04 pm


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2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
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omdafyd Profile
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Date Registered: 04-2010
Location: Back in Ozzy ...
TOTAL POSTS: 64
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Re: Re:



Jalal, when you say the standard do you mean that it is normal to have to go the full 6 clicks every time?

I'm fairly sure {old age memory issues:} that when I had my rotors done and new Bendix pads fitted this wasn't necessary.

Is it true that the handbrake cable can 'stretch' and hence affect the 'standard' 6 clicks?
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 28983
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Re:


Yep, that's the recommended adjustment setting.

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Date Registered: 11-2014
Location: Bankstown, Sydney N.S.W
TOTAL POSTS: 72
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Re:


Ive noticed my handbrake being pretty poor too and yep had a mate tell me that the adjustment is on the inner shoes that act on the drum, so long story short yeah there is 2 sets of brakes on the rear wheels apparently.


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2004 T30 Ti Petrol Auto
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Revhead Kev Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2006
Location: Mona Vale, Sydney, AUSTRALIA
TOTAL POSTS: 5285
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Re: Handbrake Question!!


ULTIMATE HANDBRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Having to get the Xtrail re-registered, it was time to adjust the handbrake, so I invested some time to find out why our handbrake is so poor a lot of the time and what might be done to improve it. Hence the title of this post.

What I found was that not all of the brake shoe contacted the inner surface of the brake drum and a little shaving was needed to maximise the contact area.
In my case, the cable to one side was also jambed due to being hit by either a stick or stone causing the outer sheath to be cut and expose the inner cable to mud and water seizing it.

So, on to the procedure...
1. Chock the front wheels, jack up and place both rear sides on stands, then remove both tyres.
2. Remove the 2 mounting bolts of both rear calipers and tie them up out of the way as you will need to remove the disks through this procedure.
3. Remove the centre console to expose the handbrake cable connecting link and check it is level when released. If it is offset as in the next pic, then one cable is jambed and needs to either be replaced or freed.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
4. Remove both rear disks. Check that the handbrake cable link is visible as in the next pic.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
If it is recessed as in the following pic then the cable needs to be freed as it is jambed somewhere or adjusted too tight.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
5. Working on one side at a time, rub some chalk on both brake shoes.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
6. Replace the disk and secure with 3 wheelnuts. Pull the handbrake on a click at a time, rotating the disk after each click until it is too dificult to rotate by hand. Then get your wheel brace and rotate the disk a full turn.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
7. Release the handbrake and remove the disk. Check the chalk on the brake shoes. If you notice only small patches rubbed off, these are high spots which are the only parts of the shoes which contact the inner brake drum.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
Using a small file, rub ONLY THESE PATCHES a little.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 until the patches of chalk removed by rotating the disk, cover a large part of the shoes.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
9. Wipe brake shoes with cloth the remove any remaining chalk and lightly roughen surface all over with sandpaper to clean.
10. Repeat steps 5-9 with the other side handbrake shoes.
11. Replace both disks, securing with 3 wheelnuts and again, working on one side at a time, remove the rubber plug from the disk which allows access to the adjuster. Using a screwdriver, turn the star adjuster anti-clockwise (up) one click at a time, rotating the disk after each click adjustment to make sure the shoes are not rubbing. Once you find the disk is difficult to rotate by hand, turn the adjuster back 1-2 clicks, replace the rubber plug and you are done.
[sign in to see URL] step 11 with the other side.
13. Replace both rear calipers and torque the mounting bolts, replace both rear wheels and lower the Xtrail back onto the ground after removing the stands.
14. Inside the cabin with the centre console still removed, make sure the handbrake is fully released and loosen off the handbrake handle adjusting nut until it is loose. The nut will have a gap away from its bracket and the cable joining link will be slack.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
15. Tighten the handbrake handle adjusting nut BY HAND ONLY until finger tight. The cable joining link should not not have any slack and should not be able to be jiggled.
]--Log in or sign up to see linked image content-- on Flickr
16. Replace the centre console, pull the handbrake on (noticing it should only pull up 4-6 clicks) and remove the chocks from the front wheels. All done.

After this procedure, my handbrake holds so firmly at 6 clicks that in Drive or Reverse the rear wheels will not move and the Xtrail squats or lifts on the rear suspension as the front wheels try to move it.

Last edited by Revhead Kev, 7/Nov/2017, 7:39 am


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Kev X450(c) T30 Guru
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Wiz Au Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2017
Location: Canberra, ACT
TOTAL POSTS: 185
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Re: Handbrake Question!!


WOW! Now I see how easy we had it in the workshop!

1. Remove disc(drums) and handbrake shoes. Machine inner 'drum' of disc using disc/drum lathe
2. Measure diameter with internal micrometer
3. Install new brake shoes into "radius grinder' machine
4. Grind new shoes to correct radius. (to match the machined 'drum' in disc)
5. Fit items to vehicle, adjust shoes so wheel turns with a tiny amount of friction, adjust handbrake cable.
6. Test drive by pulling handbrake on gravel at 30kph in a straight line, check "skid" marks in gravel for equal start points (same braking on both sides).

This is also how we fitted "oversize" shoes (with very thick brake pad material, almost double the standard thickness) and ground them to the correct radius when the drums had been machined a lot creating a much larger diameter drum size than factory.

But this was also in the day when we bonded our own bulk brake pad material to customer's old metal backing shoes, in the workshop 'mini factory', before "exchange" shoes were widely available. And pretty much how all truck drum brake shoes were custom done 'in-house' too.


Last edited by Wiz Au, 7/Nov/2017, 2:03 pm


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2004 T30 series II, Ti (now sold)
JRR50 Pathfinder, QD32ETi Turbo Diesel, with 'lots o fruit'.
2012 Jeep Cherokee KK CRD Limited is current ride.
Will be looking for a white or silver 2011-2013 T31 TL (Diesel) to "pimp out".
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