Handbrake Question!! https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/t124914 Runboard| Handbrake Question!! en-us Fri, 29 Mar 2024 10:51:45 +0000 Fri, 29 Mar 2024 10:51:45 +0000 https://www.runboard.com/ rssfeeds_managingeditor@runboard.com (Runboard.com RSS feeds managing editor) rssfeeds_webmaster@runboard.com (Runboard.com RSS feeds webmaster) akBBS 60 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2094880,from=rss#post2094880https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2094880,from=rss#post2094880WOW! Now I see how easy we had it in the workshop! 1. Remove disc(drums) and handbrake shoes. Machine inner 'drum' of disc using disc/drum lathe 2. Measure diameter with internal micrometer 3. Install new brake shoes into "radius grinder' machine 4. Grind new shoes to correct radius. (to match the machined 'drum' in disc) 5. Fit items to vehicle, adjust shoes so wheel turns with a tiny amount of friction, adjust handbrake cable. 6. Test drive by pulling handbrake on gravel at 30kph in a straight line, check "skid" marks in gravel for equal start points (same braking on both sides). This is also how we fitted "oversize" shoes (with very thick brake pad material, almost double the standard thickness) and ground them to the correct radius when the drums had been machined a lot creating a much larger diameter drum size than factory. But this was also in the day when we bonded our own bulk brake pad material to customer's old metal backing shoes, in the workshop 'mini factory', before "exchange" shoes were widely available. And pretty much how all truck drum brake shoes were custom done 'in-house' too. nondisclosed_email@example.com (Wiz Au)Tue, 07 Nov 2017 10:26:54 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2094879,from=rss#post2094879https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2094879,from=rss#post2094879ULTIMATE HANDBRAKE ADJUSTMENT Having to get the Xtrail re-registered, it was time to adjust the handbrake, so I invested some time to find out why our handbrake is so poor a lot of the time and what might be done to improve it. Hence the title of this post. What I found was that not all of the brake shoe contacted the inner surface of the brake drum and a little shaving was needed to maximise the contact area. In my case, the cable to one side was also jambed due to being hit by either a stick or stone causing the outer sheath to be cut and expose the inner cable to mud and water seizing it. So, on to the procedure... 1. Chock the front wheels, jack up and place both rear sides on stands, then remove both tyres. 2. Remove the 2 mounting bolts of both rear calipers and tie them up out of the way as you will need to remove the disks through this procedure. 3. Remove the centre console to expose the handbrake cable connecting link and check it is level when released. If it is offset as in the next pic, then one cable is jambed and needs to either be replaced or freed. on Flickr 4. Remove both rear disks. Check that the handbrake cable link is visible as in the next pic. on Flickr If it is recessed as in the following pic then the cable needs to be freed as it is jambed somewhere or adjusted too tight. on Flickr 5. Working on one side at a time, rub some chalk on both brake shoes. on Flickr 6. Replace the disk and secure with 3 wheelnuts. Pull the handbrake on a click at a time, rotating the disk after each click until it is too dificult to rotate by hand. Then get your wheel brace and rotate the disk a full turn. on Flickr 7. Release the handbrake and remove the disk. Check the chalk on the brake shoes. If you notice only small patches rubbed off, these are high spots which are the only parts of the shoes which contact the inner brake drum. on Flickr on Flickr Using a small file, rub ONLY THESE PATCHES a little. 8. Repeat steps 5-7 until the patches of chalk removed by rotating the disk, cover a large part of the shoes. on Flickr on Flickr 9. Wipe brake shoes with cloth the remove any remaining chalk and lightly roughen surface all over with sandpaper to clean. 10. Repeat steps 5-9 with the other side handbrake shoes. 11. Replace both disks, securing with 3 wheelnuts and again, working on one side at a time, remove the rubber plug from the disk which allows access to the adjuster. Using a screwdriver, turn the star adjuster anti-clockwise (up) one click at a time, rotating the disk after each click adjustment to make sure the shoes are not rubbing. Once you find the disk is difficult to rotate by hand, turn the adjuster back 1-2 clicks, replace the rubber plug and you are done. 12.Repeat step 11 with the other side. 13. Replace both rear calipers and torque the mounting bolts, replace both rear wheels and lower the Xtrail back onto the ground after removing the stands. 14. Inside the cabin with the centre console still removed, make sure the handbrake is fully released and loosen off the handbrake handle adjusting nut until it is loose. The nut will have a gap away from its bracket and the cable joining link will be slack. on Flickr 15. Tighten the handbrake handle adjusting nut BY HAND ONLY until finger tight. The cable joining link should not not have any slack and should not be able to be jiggled. on Flickr 16. Replace the centre console, pull the handbrake on (noticing it should only pull up 4-6 clicks) and remove the chocks from the front wheels. All done. After this procedure, my handbrake holds so firmly at 6 clicks that in Drive or Reverse the rear wheels will not move and the Xtrail squats or lifts on the rear suspension as the front wheels try to move it.nondisclosed_email@example.com (Revhead Kev)Mon, 06 Nov 2017 22:36:12 +0000 Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087180,from=rss#post2087180https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087180,from=rss#post2087180Ive noticed my handbrake being pretty poor too and yep had a mate tell me that the adjustment is on the inner shoes that act on the drum, so long story short yeah there is 2 sets of brakes on the rear wheels apparently. nondisclosed_email@example.com (GOODBEER)Wed, 11 Mar 2015 20:08:36 +0000 Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087096,from=rss#post2087096https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087096,from=rss#post2087096Yep, that's the recommended adjustment setting.nondisclosed_email@example.com (jalalski)Mon, 02 Mar 2015 12:27:17 +0000 Re: Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087093,from=rss#post2087093https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2087093,from=rss#post2087093 Jalal, when you say the standard do you mean that it is normal to have to go the full 6 clicks every time? I'm fairly sure {old age memory issues:} that when I had my rotors done and new Bendix pads fitted this wasn't necessary. Is it true that the handbrake cable can 'stretch' and hence affect the 'standard' 6 clicks?nondisclosed_email@example.com (omdafyd)Mon, 02 Mar 2015 11:54:24 +0000 Re: Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2084905,from=rss#post2084905https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2084905,from=rss#post2084905Well that is a revelation to me...Excellent Link. Two sets of brakes on the back wheels: One set of discs for normal driving plus a set of drums dedicated to the handbrake ! I would never have imagined that setup in a month of Sundays. That design should see the handbrake dedicated shoes last for the life of the car - unless driven with the handbrake either up (which should set off the warnings) or partially up (enough to lightly engage the brake but not enough to set off the warnings). I do seem to recall once hearing an annoying "bong" sound until I noticed the red light on the dash readout indicating the handbrake was on. In that instance, it was still up 2 clicks owing to my sloppy release.nondisclosed_email@example.com (DogTrail)Tue, 02 Sep 2014 16:54:19 +0000 Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2084551,from=rss#post2084551https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2084551,from=rss#post2084551Found this on the net. Handbrake adjustment What can cause the handbrake shoes to wear out other than driving with the handbrake up? The mechanic said the shoes needed to be replaced. It has been getting harder to keep the car in park with the handbrake up to the max. I'm putting the car in 1st gear now every time it's parked.nondisclosed_email@example.com (nananut)Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:46:39 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080824,from=rss#post2080824https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080824,from=rss#post2080824quote:I used to do it years ago in motorkhanas in my mini & they were mainly on bitumen in carparks. Aaah, memories.... I used to have a hot Mini. I'll have to find a large area of gravel & fling the Exy about a bit nondisclosed_email@example.com (DogTrail)Sat, 08 Feb 2014 02:26:23 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080788,from=rss#post2080788https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080788,from=rss#post2080788JUst give the steering wheel a good turn then yank up the handbrake which should lock the rear wheels & let them slide. To practice, Give yourself plenty of room & find a slippery surface like grass/gravel until you have it down. The main thing is a bit of speed that you can turn into momentum for the turn. I used to do it years ago in motorkhanas in my mini & they were mainly on bitumen in carparks. Couldn't have them nowadays as the shops are all open on Sundays now.nondisclosed_email@example.com (waky53)Wed, 05 Feb 2014 16:39:52 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080780,from=rss#post2080780https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080780,from=rss#post2080780Find some gravel or grass and try it. I doubt it would do anything as all it usually does it cut the power to certain wheels. You don't need power to do a handbrake turn, just speed.....or so I've heard nondisclosed_email@example.com (Toddyh03)Wed, 05 Feb 2014 06:26:31 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080771,from=rss#post2080771https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080771,from=rss#post2080771Just a whimsical/theoretical question for the AWD version T31: In 2wd, would a handbrake turn set off all of the stability control measures and ruin the turn?nondisclosed_email@example.com (DogTrail)Tue, 04 Feb 2014 23:31:46 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080752,from=rss#post2080752https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080752,from=rss#post2080752Put the front end on blocks (anything to stop it rolling) and then jack up the entire rear end. I did one side at a time and used car stands. This will allow you to spin the rear wheels so you can see the hand brake adjuster. From there it's pretty easy. Just try to adjust both sides the same amount.nondisclosed_email@example.com (Toddyh03)Tue, 04 Feb 2014 13:32:03 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080750,from=rss#post2080750https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2080750,from=rss#post2080750I tried to get the caliper off yesterday to adjust the handbrake, but couldn't shift the bolts. How do you guys do it? Was also confused after reading some posts & the ESR. How many bolts are there to undo, 2 sets of bolts or one? I was trying to move the 17mm bolts, tried both a ring spanner & a socket with a hammer but wouldn't budge. I had tried to adjust it without removing the disc, but could not see the adjuster thru the hole.nondisclosed_email@example.com (waky53)Tue, 04 Feb 2014 13:26:19 +0000 Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048996,from=rss#post2048996https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048996,from=rss#post2048996I don't know how I missed Kev's photos before my last post, but I took some photos of the hand brake adjusting wheel while I replaced my rear pads (and adjusted the handbrake). My previous attempt was wrong - the screws I was undoing were the ones keeping tension on the spring mechanism of the handbrake shoes, so I made sure they were correctly done up (90 degrees to the release tab on the screw) while everything was apart. Plenty of meat left on the handbrake shoes, and the handbrake now holds the car still on my sloping driveway with the lever just over half-way up (before it needed to be almost vertical ). The adjustment wheels needed about 6 turns (I don't think they'd ever been adjusted!) nondisclosed_email@example.com (basshead)Sat, 08 Jan 2011 20:44:59 +0000 Re:https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048983,from=rss#post2048983https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048983,from=rss#post2048983Hi Peter, The dealer can adjust the handbrake for you, the standard is 6 clicks until full lock. My xtrail has been doing this since new, so I found that letting the car roll after putting in P (Park) and then applying the handbrake solved the problem.nondisclosed_email@example.com (jalalski)Sat, 08 Jan 2011 10:36:29 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048982,from=rss#post2048982https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048982,from=rss#post2048982There seem to be a lot of handbrake issues here. I have had my series 3 for 3 months now, and my only complaint is the handbrake. I have to pull the handle into the back seat just to stop the auto creeping it forward at the lights. Any tips on what I should expect when I get it attended to at the next service? This is quite disappointing compared to my old Navara STR diesel, but I guess its drum rear brakes make a difference. cheersnondisclosed_email@example.com (Seymourp)Sat, 08 Jan 2011 10:31:19 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048544,from=rss#post2048544https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048544,from=rss#post2048544Rich, the play in the axles from the wheel hub to the dif is normal, provided it isnt excessive. If the disc is binding at the same spot when spun, it may mean it is slightly warped. It could be machined, but with the amount of KMs on them, thay may need to be replaced. The hand brake shoes themselves, may be worn down to the limit. You will have to take the discs off, to see if there is any meat left on them. If they are excessively worn, no adjustment will allow you to set them correctly. If the squealing has just started in last week, and it isnt soemthing obvious like a stone shield rubbing on the rear of the disc it may be the bearing as I stated in the other thread. If you can, pull the discs off each of the rear wheels, give it all a good clean and re-torque. If the noise is still there, (and pads,discs are in good order) the bearing is the next step. nondisclosed_email@example.com (Robbo0001)Mon, 13 Dec 2010 05:40:33 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048531,from=rss#post2048531https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2048531,from=rss#post2048531quote:Robbo0001 wrote: The T30 series 1 has a little rubber bung in the front of the disc assembly on the rear wheels.. After removing this (dont push it in, otherwise you have to completely remove the caliper and disc anyway, to find it ..just pull out with pliers) Use a torch (as you spin the hub) to locate the adjusting gear on the inside of the hub drum.Then you can use a flat tip screw driver, through the access hole, to adjust the handbrake shoes out or in as required. I hit the whole lot with Brake cleaner and compressed air as well, to clean it all up. All I did was adjust it up until I couldnt spin the disc, then backed it off until it didnt grind. After a high-pitched squeal coming from the left rear in the last week or two, I took the back wheel off to have a sticky-beak (found nothing unexpected apart from pads getting abit low, but noise stops when braking). I've been meaning to try adjusting the hand-brake via the back wheels so today I gave it a go on our T30 Series 2, but found as soon as I turned the screw inside the disc any more than approx 1/4 turn, that it was under spring tension and I almost lost it inside the disc. I only assume adjustment for tightening is in a clockwise direction for both L &R sides (I couldn't get the small adjustment to grab onto the disc to prevent it spinning and didn't want to turn the screw too many times in case it was too far). As I left the disc on to do this, I was unable to see how much adjustment I was actually doing. Hopefully I haven't over-tightened it; the handbrake itself seemed to engage about half-way up after adjusting the L side but then appeared to be back up near the top after adjusting the R side. I'll see how it goes after the next drive, but I wouldn't be surprised if I need to remove the discs to be able to properly see how much adjustment is needed. Done 92,000km and hand brake (inside cabin) was adjusted last time well over 50,000 ago by Nissan (for as long as I can remember it's always needed to be pulled right up, then another click after taking foot off brake pedal). Ooops - nearly forgot to mention - while rotating the disc around to find the adjustment screw, it got tight at the same position each rotation (either direction, and both L & R sides). I also noticed the rear diff slightly rise when the discs reached that tight position. I couldn't hear any unusual noises, but before unjacking back to the ground, I held onto both of the tubular sections coming out of the sides of the diff (that the small concertina rubber boots attach to) and there was about 1mm movement of this part of the shaft (particularly in the L & R (in & out) direction). I have no idea if that is normal, so if anyone else gets a chance to get under the back of their X-Trail, I'd appreciate if they could report back if theirs does the same. (It also does it while sitting back on the ground). I couldn't find my X-Trail User manual CD to check the correct way to do this. nondisclosed_email@example.com (basshead)Sun, 12 Dec 2010 14:57:38 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2040764,from=rss#post2040764https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2040764,from=rss#post2040764While I was replacing my rotors and pads I thought I would take a few pics to show everyone the main parts referred to in the instructions for adjusting the handbrake. Here are the brake shoes Here is the adjuster (note there is no rear access for adjustment while the rotor is on because it is blocked by the splashguard) Here is the rubber grommet which should be kept if replacing rotors and removed for access to the handbrake adjuster nondisclosed_email@example.com (Revhead Kev)Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:18:31 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038716,from=rss#post2038716https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038716,from=rss#post2038716Hi Guy,s By the sound,s of thing,s i must have got a good one, why i say this is since day            one when i first took delivery of my new Exy the hand brake has worked fine            and reading some of these threads i just asked my wife what,s the hand brake            like she said it,s good,(she drives it more then me)but then she did say she tried            to drive off one day and the Exy was labouring she looked down and noticed she            had left the hand brake on but apart from that it work,s fine just my 2 cent,s            worth.            Cheer,snondisclosed_email@example.com (saunders1949)Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:12:46 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038674,from=rss#post2038674https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038674,from=rss#post2038674when i was at nissan we had a few xtrails coming in with snapped handbrake cables from lazy workshops just over adjusting an already stretched cable at the handle only. we got told to back off at the handle first then de-dust and adjust at rear as shawn stated, then take up any slack at the handle. as shawn said it good to rough up the shoes but also get some heavy grit sandpaper and put a heavy zigzag pattern on the shoes contacting surface on the inside of the rotor. if you pull the handle up enough to hold the car and dont go crazy pulling it to the roof it it should stay in adjustment for longernondisclosed_email@example.com (NissanTaylor)Mon, 11 Jan 2010 21:45:37 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038522,from=rss#post2038522https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2038522,from=rss#post2038522That is all good info on adjusting the X-Trail handbrake. Every car that I have owned, including my X-Tr, with rear discs has had a similar problem. Vehicles with drum rear brakes have a much larger diameter to work on, and are normally very effective. My driveway is very steep, and if parked there, I always chock a wheel and leave it in gear to reduce the chance of it heading down hill into Bass Strait which is only 100 metres away ! nondisclosed_email@example.com (avanti7320)Fri, 08 Jan 2010 08:12:00 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2037342,from=rss#post2037342https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2037342,from=rss#post2037342Adjusted the hand brake today, both at the wheels and in the handle. The handle is pretty simple, however you need a "deep" 10mm socket to tighten it. The T30 series 1 has a little rubber bung in the front of the disc assembly on the rear wheels.. After removing this (dont push it in, otherwise you have to completely remove the caliper and disc anyway, to find it ..just pull out with pliers) Use a torch (as you spin the hub) to locate the adjusting gear on the inside of the hub drum.Then you can use a flat tip screw driver, through the access hole, to adjust the handbrake shoes out or in as required. I hit the whole lot with Brake cleaner and compressed air as well, to clean it all up. All I did was adjust it up until I couldnt spin the disc, then backed it off until it didnt grind. Now have a functioning hand brake for the first time in a while. Shawns instructions were a great assistance as well Edit I had obviously removed the rear wheels, and the car was jacked up, whilst doing this Cheersnondisclosed_email@example.com (Robbo0001)Sun, 06 Dec 2009 21:34:34 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011009,from=rss#post2011009https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011009,from=rss#post2011009Thanks jalalski. I think I'll leave it to the next service - unless it gets considerably worse before then. nondisclosed_email@example.com (bromleyh)Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:58:28 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011008,from=rss#post2011008https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011008,from=rss#post2011008I'd say have it looked at the next service, as there isn't much adjustment there to do at all. The handbrake handle itself will always remain wobbly and loose (moves from side to side), so even if they tighten it, it will get loose after 3 days or so. The only adjustment they can make is to the number of clicks to fully engage. It should be no more than 6 clicks when pulled all the way up. They usually adjust the handbrake at customer's request and there is no charge associated with that, so you can call them and ask if they prefer your bring it to them now or leave it until the next service.nondisclosed_email@example.com (jalalski)Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:51:35 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011007,from=rss#post2011007https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2011007,from=rss#post2011007It seems I'm haivng the same problem with the handbrake as a lot of others. I've just bought a 2003 x-trail and am having major issues adjusting to the hand brake on it. Would this be something that is covered under the 3 month statuatory warranty when you purchase a second hand car from a dealer? Now I'm wondering whether it's worth taking it back to them at all. What would you reccomend I do? Contact the dealer, or just get it looked at at it's next service? Thanks bnondisclosed_email@example.com (bromleyh)Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:47:21 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2010997,from=rss#post2010997https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2010997,from=rss#post2010997Yep my handbrake is awful too, scared the hell out of me when I first got it, when it rolled back several metres. (I think I put the clutch in when the engine was off.) Saw the dealer but they reckoned it was fine. I just learned to live with it and changed some of my habits (which had been fine with my old '85 Laser). I've had it adjusted every service and in between in earlier times. I've had it adjusted really well about once. I also dislike the fact it needs to be pulled up so far. I find it quite difficult to release at times, and it's definitely not to be recommended after a chiropractic adjustment. 8( nondisclosed_email@example.com (trailx)Tue, 25 Mar 2008 22:58:15 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000433,from=rss#post2000433https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000433,from=rss#post2000433Thanks for the info. Shawn. Your post has now been linked to the DIY Section of the forum.nondisclosed_email@example.com (jalalski)Mon, 07 May 2007 18:51:37 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000432,from=rss#post2000432https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000432,from=rss#post2000432Shawn, Great instructions mate. nondisclosed_email@example.com (robot95)Mon, 07 May 2007 18:06:18 +0000 Re: Handbrake Question!!https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000360,from=rss#post2000360https://baustralianxtrail.runboard.com/p2000360,from=rss#post2000360That's some good instruction there, Shawn. Perhaps the admin team could add it to our growing list of Technical DIY/FAQ's. nondisclosed_email@example.com (basshead)Sat, 05 May 2007 11:39:16 +0000