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prs Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2005
TOTAL POSTS: 4
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wiring spot/driving lights


Hi all

ive recently purchased spot lights for my x trail ti. I'm having trouble finding which wire is the active from the high beams to connect to my relay for my new lights any help??

ta phil

Last edited by jalalski, 23/Apr/2006, 7:27 am
19/Nov/2005, 10:19 am Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
BRETT72 Profile
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Date Registered: 10-2005
Location: Orange. NSW.
TOTAL POSTS: 1999
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Re: wiring spot lights


 I have checked the passenger side light, as this is closest to the battery.

 There are three(3) wires that go into the back of the light fixture:
  The solid black wire is the earth.
  The red/orange wire is the low beam 12volt.
  The black/red wire is the high beam 12volt. Attach the relay activation wire to this one.

 There is a very easy way to test this. Buy yourself a cable tester, which consists of a small thin screwdriver which has a light/fuse inside. This has a thin lead to a alligator clip, which is then attached to the battery. The screwdriver end goes against the wire you want to test and the light/fuse inside will light up when you have positive voltage.

 Hope this helps.



---
BRETT72 - X235

19/Nov/2005, 5:33 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message MSN
 
hicksy Profile
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Date Registered: 08-2005
Location: coffs harbour
TOTAL POSTS: 34
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Re: wiring spot lights


hi ppl when u use a test light use 1 what has an led in it because it use .nothink of an amp where the other types that use globes can draw 2 many amps and one flash & it is ash so they say
19/Nov/2005, 10:16 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
prs Profile
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Date Registered: 11-2005
TOTAL POSTS: 4
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Re: wiring spot lights


thanks for all the info

i found that the green wire with red stripe that is connected to the high beam globe socket is the active wire to be wired up to the relay.All works well.The only step next for me is to adjust the lights cause at present they can be used to posium spot!!

thanks phil
27/Nov/2005, 3:39 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
mattSTX Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2005
Location: Newcastle
TOTAL POSTS: 49
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Re: wiring spot lights


Hi all,

I am about to wire up some spot lights to my series II x trail.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me where the best place to connect the active wire, does it go straight to the battery? and the colour of the high beam wire in the series II exy as I believe brett72 has a series I with different coloured wires.

A DIY guide would be so helpful (series II model first)

Last of all, by connecting the active to power, high beam activation to high beam wire and earth to ground, by switching the high beams on, will this automatically turn the spotties on? Sorry if this is stupid question, it is 1230 in the morning!

Thanks

Matt emoticon

Last edited by mattSTX, 7/Dec/2005, 11:22 pm


---
Matt X-091
PREVIOUS: 2005 ST-X 5speed Manual
NOW: 2010 TL DCi 6 speed Manual
7/Dec/2005, 10:51 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re: wiring spot/driving lights


Posted by AKAK9-Moved from another thread
============================================

I spent most of the afternoon wiring up my new driving lights today and I thought I would pass on some tips.

I have a series 2 Exy, so I'm not sure if this is the same for the series 1. Someone else will have to confirm my findings.

Most of the wiring for the driving lights is already in place and with only a few small modifications your lights can easily be wired up.

I started by making up a loom for the lights using 14g wire back to the rear relay block in the engine bay. In the relay block you will find a relay holder ready for the driving lights but with no relay. You have to take the relay block apart and this is already discussed with the wiring up of the read fog light elsewhere, so just do a search for that.

Once the relay block is apart, you will see a white wire that needs to be removed and insulated. (Just use a bit of heat shrink or insulation tape.) The positive wire from your lights goes in this hole. The negative wire can be hooked up to any good earth, but I used one of the bolts holding down the front relay block. Put it all back together and put in an appropriate relay. I used a 16Amp relay however I think it might be a bit low in amperage. (I have 2 x 130w globes in my driving lights, so really it should be at least 20Amp. I'll let you know how it goes later.)

Ok, now move inside and take apart the lower dash around the fuse block. Up above the steering column is a brown relay block. This is used for the illumination on a genuine switch. Because I am using a Narva switch, you only need one of the outlets to get your lights working. If you flip the relay block over and look for a yellow wire, this is the one you want to feed from. (It's hole No. 7 for those who can read relay blocks)

From here you put in a spade connector and the other end goes to your switch. The relay block should have a bit of insulation tape put over the spade connector, just to make sure it doesn't fall out. The other side of the switch goes to a decent earth. I used the top of the fuse box as it is a solid earth as a bolt hole is already there.

Lastly, I had to upgrade the fuse to a 20Amp fuse because of my light wattage. The original fuse will only work for 2 x 80watt lights (MAX!!), so for anyone considering 2 x 100watt (the normal wattage) then replace it with a 20 Amp fuse. The fuse block for this is under the bonnet next to the battery.

Hey presto! No having to get cables through the firewall and could done in about 1 hour. I probably spent about 3 hours today doing the job, but I used a lot of professional wrapping on the light loom to ensure it stays dry. This is probably a bit of overkill, but since I had all the bits to do it, I just wanted to make sure.

I took a couple of photos, but I'm still having hassles posting them. Maybe someone else can help here!

---

23/Apr/2006, 7:30 am Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
AKAK9 Profile
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Date Registered: 01-2006
TOTAL POSTS: 133
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Re: wiring spot/driving lights


Some addition information:

If you are running 2 x 100 watt lights, then you will need to have a 15 Amp fuse and a 15 Amp relay. (I could only get a 16 Am to suit a Commodore) This fits the wattage/amperage calculation perfectly.


If like me, you are running 2 x 130 Watt lights, then you will definately need to upgrade to a minimum of 20 Amp relay/fuse. 25 Amp is a bit safer.

Alternatively you could get another relay holder from the wreckers and wire in tandem to run 2 x 15 Amp relays and a 25 Amp fuse.
25/Apr/2006, 5:50 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message
 
basshead Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: Panania, Sydney
TOTAL POSTS: 2852
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Re: wiring spot/driving lights


quote:

AKAK9 wrote:

If like me, you are running 2 x 130 Watt lights, then you will definately need to upgrade to a minimum of 20 Amp relay/fuse. 25 Amp is a bit safer.



Keep in mind that the fuse is there to protect the CABLE in the event of overload or short circuit. You'll need to run LARGER cable if you're going to start using such high rated fuses, otherwise you're risking melting the cable and likely to cause a fire!



---
Rich. X-013(c)
'04 S2 ST Auto. Nudge_roofracks_tow_tints_Lightforce_GME_YokoGeoA/T-S_TBS_bashplate_50mm-spacer-lift
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26/Apr/2006, 12:44 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message MSN Yahoo Blog
 
Dunoon Profile
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Date Registered: 06-2005
Location: Orange, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 269
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Re: wiring spot/driving lights


Why not just buy the Nissan cable kit for additional lights. Will save heaps of trouble as they just plug in.

---
John,
From Orange NSW.
My rides are:
2002 TI Auto (Series 1) in Twilight, and
2007 Maxima in Bright Silver
2008 Piaggio MP3 400 in Black
Member number: X165
26/Apr/2006, 4:40 pm Link to this post Send Email PM   Send Private Message MSN Blog
 
jalalski Profile
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Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29094
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Re: wiring spot/driving lights


quote:

Dunoon wrote:

Why not just buy the Nissan cable kit for additional lights. Will save heaps of trouble as they just plug in.



Probably because of the price of the Nissan kit John emoticon The aftermarket kit cost around $46 and I believe Nissan price is double that (if I'm not mistaken)



---

26/Apr/2006, 5:10 pm Link to this post Send Private Message MSN Blog
 


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