cooch t31
X-TRAIL HOLIC
Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re:
The discs are warped and need machining.
The front discs are very soft on the T31 and become distorted very quickly.
I do a lot of towing and am due for my second machining, its a 2008 model.
--- Tony X-891c
HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1
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7/Jun/2011, 6:17 am
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cooch t31
X-TRAIL HOLIC
Date Registered: 06-2008
Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
TOTAL POSTS: 5966
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Re:
Discs warp in a varioys of conditions. Heavy or hard quick braking, towing, quick changes in temperature or driving with the left foot on the brake pedal.
Unfortunately its not a warranty issue as its like the tyres, brake pads and wiper blades, consumables.
You can take the car to any tyre fitter as they can machine your discs, or your Local Nissan dealer can do it too. Just mention it to them when you service the car next.
Here in Australia you can expect to pay around the $100 mark.
--- Tony X-891c
HERE is my D22 Navara
HERE is my old 2008 T31, ST Series1
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9/Jun/2011, 5:47 am
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jalalski
Date Registered: 02-2004
Location: SUTHERLAND, SYDNEY
TOTAL POSTS: 29100
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Re:
The question was asked by a member from South Africa guys! Please keep this in mind when providing responses and/or referring international members to local Australian businesses
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27/Jul/2013, 7:54 am
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DogTrail
X-TRAIL FANATIC
Date Registered: 05-2012
Location: Sunshine Coast
TOTAL POSTS: 481
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Re: front brake shudder on 2.0 dci 2009 model
quote: what worry's me is that my xtrail only has 36500km on the clock,
Regrettably, it only takes one instance of overheating to cause the original rotors to warp enough to give a pulse when applying the brakes thereafter.
Depending on the age of the rotors and expected lifespan of the OEM items (previous in the forum would indicate that it is not much) then go by the local cost of machining vs replacement with a heavier duty version for you.
I've sat behind people who rest a foot on the brakes for the entire length of the downward incline. {Their brakes would be cooked at the bottom}
That tends to disrupt my rhythm of allowing speed to build, then apply brakes to bring speed to below my desired average but then allow gravity to bring that speed back up, then apply the brakes again in a regular rhythm which allows the brakes to cool between applications.
By touching the brakes to shed speed downhill and then regularly taking the foot off to allow them relief to cool down, they do not overheat (and warp).
Riding the brakes on even a few Km of a downhill run is likely to cook them enough to get red hot rotors. Side effects of that excess heat are always unpleasant.
I learned very quickly in old cars with leading edge drum brakes that the moment they got hot they failed to function at all, but the lesson that "heat is the enemy to brakes" is still applicable today.
Last edited by DogTrail, 27/Jul/2013, 6:52 pm
--- 2011/12 Australia:- 2.5 litre petrol 4WD, Series IV ST, CVT : + some gadgets and cosmetic add-on's. Dirt, (it protects the paintwork) X-2429(c).
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27/Jul/2013, 6:30 pm
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